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Pelican Arete 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

Type: TR, Boulder, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.15a French: 9a+ Ewbanks: 36 UIAA: XI+ British: E11 7c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,790
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Feb 9, 2003
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Halfway up the arete.

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Climb the interesting and sustained right arete, without using the left arete. Holds are more plentiful around the right side of the arete. Sustained and intersting, this is an excellent warmup route for more advanced climbers, and a difficult yet doable first 5.10.

This route is often bouldered, though the crux is about 10' off the ground, so place your crashpad carefully!


3 bolt anchor at the top. Bring a long sling (10') to set up a top rope.

Photos of Pelican Arete Slideshow Add Photo
The Pelican Arete is front and center.
BETA PHOTO: The Pelican Arete is front and center.
Cleaning a top-rope atop Pelican Arete.
Cleaning a top-rope atop Pelican Arete.
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By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Apr 20, 2003

The Pelican Arete is a fun TR requiring some interesting moves. The Falcon guide rates this at 5.8 which must be a mistake. Hard 9 or 10a is more realistic. The guide also rates the crack to the right of the arete at 10a w/o using the arete. This cannot be! It's at least 10d or harder I would think. Very thin, hard to find edges on steep rock. I don't think climbers breaking into 10's would have a chance on this. The arete requires a couple difficult moves but then eases up. The crack to the right is very sustained right to the top. Unless I'm missing something... I would be interested in hearing others views on this route. If this is 10a, I can't imagine how hard the Sea Breeze route will be!

By Anonymous Coward
Feb 13, 2004

The climb just to the right of the arete is called the pelican crack. Most locals call it 5.11w/o the crack. No way is it 5.10.

By Floyd Hayes
Sep 27, 2010

I think it's solid 5.10a. I've played around with some options for protection and considered leading it but the crux halfway up cannot be safely protected. It is often free-soloed.