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PegLeg I, II 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Paul Davidson, Peggy Spencer
Page Views: 358
Submitted By: Paul Davidson on Apr 11, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the Gambit area. All are good climb...

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Climbing restricted due to tourist safety MORE INFO >>>

Description 

To the right of Stalemate is a roof, corner system. Climb the flat face right of the Stalemate corner up to the roofs. Exit left or right for I and II. Or a bit lower down, head out right on a diagonaling system that leads to a steeper exit on a clean face (that's 5.9-5.10 ground and is actually Wanderlust, which can be climbed with a direct start). The two Pegleg exits are in the 5.8 or so range.

As I recall, some pretty fun climbing on some clean rock.

This is just left of Crack N Up, around the arete.


Protection 

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Photos of PegLeg I, II Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up at Nickle Slot to CrackNUp
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at Nickle Slot to CrackNUp
Comments on PegLeg I, II Add Comment
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By Paul Davidson
May 17, 2011

I did these two routes again when passing through there in mid march and was surprised at how fun the two exits were. Going left is a bit harder and more committing but pretty cool. Bit wandering/veggie at the bottom but it gets cleaner.

Looks to me like the roof in between the two exits would go and be a bit wild.

By TylerW
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 11, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

In the Karabin fold out, it looks like Pegleg 1 and 2 are a bit different from this picture (the Karabin guide shows Pegleg 1 going up and cutting right beneath nickel slot and Pegleg 2 going where this picture shows Pegleg 1 going... I guess I should trust the first ascentionist, but any idea on the discrepancy?

By Catherine Conner
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jun 18, 2012

Had never been on this one, and I think it's great fun! I exited the roof to the left, and thought those moves were tenuous for a moment or two. Good times!

By Paul Davidson
Feb 4, 2014

Tyler:
I've drawn the 3 routes as I recall putting them up.
How Marty got the names, location, etc.. I don't know. I suspect from Toula's guide, Cheap Way, which had a number of climbs out of sequence on it. After the Alpineer folded, there was really nothing to keep track of FAs in the area.
I'll have to look at Tim's guide and see what he has there.

I'm also going off probably 30 years of memory :-)

I do know I have P1 and P2 correctly defined. I'm a bit hazier on Hard Rain. In fact, I'd forgotten all about that until I found a quasi journal I'd tossed together of FAs from back around then.
After staring at the lines, I started to recall the FA of hard rain.
It was just that, started raining as I led it and poor Peg had to follow it in a downpour. Couple of drowned rats at the end of the day. And HR had to be the corner I'd drawn in because the Pegs are too far right to be anything but them.