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Beer Walls
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Lichenbrau T 
Live Free or Die T,TR 
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Pats' Blue Ribbon S 
Pegasus T 
Radioactive T 
Rockaholic T 
Seven Ounces T 
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Wandering Lunatic S 

Pegasus 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Rich Leswing, Jim Cunningham, and Peggy Collins 7/21/82
Page Views: 2,259
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Dec 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Description 

This was once a "must do" for first-time visitors to the Adirondacks, steep for the grade with some nice exposure. Due to rockfall, however, it is now more difficult with poor protection through the crux. There's still some great climbing on it, though.

Pitch 1:
Start this route on the off-width size crack that leads to the large belay. (5.7 / 40 feet) You can also reach this spot by easy 5th class on the flake/chimney on the right.

Pitch 2:
Leave the belay and head off right aiming to turn the roof. The crux moves lead past this roof, then finish up easier ground to the rim of the cliff. (5.9-R / 110 feet)

Enjoy the big air below you, strenuous and thoughtful climbing all over the route, and clean rock abound.

Note that the "consensus" rating given for this route by Mountain Project was prior to the rockfall.

Location 

In the center of the Lower Beer Walls, about 200 feet to the left of the Pats' Blue Ribbon alcove is a large detached flake leaning against the cliff. This is it.

Protection 

A standard rack with a nice variety of passive pro. Long slings and a couple cordelettes. If you want to rap this route, bring a tag line, or climb with doubles.


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By Nick Weinberg
From: Essex, NY
May 14, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

Climbed this the other day. I was told that it was 5.7, and a classic. It felt more like hard 5.8, with adequate protection assuming that the potentially loose square block were to withstand the expansion that a fall on a cam behind it would produce. If the block and piece blow, you are looking at a long whipper. This is probably why they have it as 5.9 R in the new revised guidebook. The 5.8 first pitch of Anteater is a fun, well protected way to reach the second pitch of this climb.

I would recommend Blacksmith next to this if you are looking for a high quality, well protected face climb.....
By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Jul 5, 2010

5.9 R? Really
By Devin Krevetski
From: West Woodstock, VT
Sep 30, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

great route, a little sketchy for my taste off the P1 belay ledge. With microcams and RPs the roof can be protected without placing anything relying on the loose tooth. I don't know what the pitch looked like before the rock fall.
By Eric G.
From: Saratoga Springs, NY
Sep 3, 2012

Somewhere near the crap pin, a probably-good-enough yellow alien can be very delicately placed.
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
May 30, 2014

The lone tooth that offered protection at the crux now sits shattered at the base of the route.
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