Upon visiting the Adirondacks for the first time, this route should be on everyone's "To-Do List". This is also, perhaps, the steepest line of the grade in the Dacks, so be ready for some nice exposure.
(Note: This description is of the original path up the cliff. The route has been altered over the years due to some serious rock fall.)
Start this route on the off-width size crack that leads to the large belay. You can also reach this spot by 4th classing the flake on the right. (5.7 / 40 feet)
Leave the belay and head off right aiming to turn the roof where you see the right-facing corner. Clip the dodgy pin and make the crux moves, then finish up easier ground to the rim of the cliff. Be aware that this pitch's protection is PG and should be handled with care. (5.7+ / 110 feet)
With some big air below you, strenuous and thoughtful climbing all over the route, and clean rock abound, you'll be wondering why you ever need to climb anything else.
In the center of the Lower Beer Walls, about 200 feet to the left of the Pats' Blue Ribbon alcove is a large detached flake leaning against the cliff. This is it.
A standard rack with a nice variety of passive pro. Long slings and a couple cordelettes. If you want to rap this route, bring a tag line, or climb with doubles.
|By Nick Weinberg|
From: Essex, NY
May 14, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Climbed this the other day. I was told that it was 5.7, and a classic. It felt more like hard 5.8, with adequate protection assuming that the potentially loose square block were to withstand the expansion that a fall on a cam behind it would produce. If the block and piece blow, you are looking at a long whipper. This is probably why they have it as 5.9 R in the new revised guidebook. The 5.8 first pitch of Anteater is a fun, well protected way to reach the second pitch of this climb.
I would recommend Blacksmith next to this if you are looking for a high quality, well protected face climb.....
|By E thatcher|
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Jul 5, 2010
5.9 R? Really
|By Devin Krevetski|
From: West Woodstock, VT
Sep 30, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
great route, a little sketchy for my taste off the P1 belay ledge. With microcams and RPs the roof can be protected without placing anything relying on the loose tooth. I don't know what the pitch looked like before the rock fall.
|By Eric G.|
Sep 3, 2012
Somewhere near the crap pin, a probably-good-enough yellow alien can be very delicately placed.
|By Jim Lawyer|
May 30, 2014
The lone tooth that offered protection at the crux now sits shattered at the base of the route.