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Mount Hayden
Select Route:
Pegasus T 
South Face T 

Pegasus 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Paul Davidson, Jim Haisley ~ Spring 1982
Page Views: 3,596
Submitted By: markguycan on Jun 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: This is the second pitch of Pegasus on Mt Hayden i...

Description 

climb left side of a large flake toward the North end of the East face, then up flaring finger and hand crack (10c) to good ledge. P2: move belay left, climb Right angling steep dihedral (10+) to a nice pine tree to belay. P3: up easy wide crack then fingers in dihedral to overhanging pod (10-) then short face to awesome summit. Rap South face original route (3x with one 70m and a little scrambling).

Location 

East face of Mt Hayden. Approach via gully north of Pt Imperial. approach time: 1.5-2hrs, this is the crux!

Protection 

dbl set to 3.5


Photos of Pegasus Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pegasus, E. Face, Mt. Hayden.
Pegasus, E. Face, Mt. Hayden.
Rock Climbing Photo: A shot from the FA, Jim Haisley starting the uglie...
A shot from the FA, Jim Haisley starting the uglie...
Rock Climbing Photo: Image of the FA line. Can't say I'm certain about ...
Image of the FA line. Can't say I'm certain about ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt Hayden from the approach trail.  From this poin...
BETA PHOTO: Mt Hayden from the approach trail. From this poin...

Comments on Pegasus Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike
From: Phoenix
Nov 14, 2007
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

OK Greg, there you are. Not the greatest pics but at least it's something.
By Paul Davidson
May 14, 2008

FA - Paul Davidson, Jim Haisley ~ Spring 1982

We rapped the route, Pegasus, w/ double 9s. Much cleaner than std rappel.

The above description is inacurrate for the first pitch, or else my directions are 180 out.

If the climb ascends the N face, which I believe it does, then the first pitch starts on the N side almost at the W corner.
Up a rounded corner, crack to where it ends and a bit of slightly run out 5.10 takes you right to another thin crack up to a tree on the ledge. I believe we thought this might be +, can't recall since it's been 20+ years.

EDIT: I think first pitch can be seen in the lower right side of Pernell's pic. Starts right side of the block, corner ? Ends at the tree right at the edge of the ledge.

BTW -discovered actual year was 1983. And sometime in early June.
By A. Frost
Mar 4, 2010

Paul,

No offense intended, but I think your route is on the E face. There is a route on the N face, but it's not nearly as aesthetic or difficult (although it involves some scary choss wrangling through the Supai).

When we did Pegasus, I started to the left of the block visible in Pernell's photo, which is obvious in the photo I just added.

By the way, the second pitch OW is one of the most energetic thrutches I've yet enjoyed. Every bit of 10+.

A beautiful line.
By Paul Davidson
Mar 9, 2010

Interesting... I didn't have a compass but I sure thought this face was more northerly looking than any other direction. I suppose it might be the NW face but when you are at the over look, aren't you looking pretty much due east and looking mostly across Pegasus, you're not really looking straight onto the route but you can sort of see the face it is on. If it were the E face, I don't think you could see it at all from the overlook. I always thought the classic photos from Pt. Imperial were looking at the W face.

I've always thought it was the best pure rock climb in the canyon that I'd done. SFace of Zoro is classic, as is Buddha but the hand crack out the bulge at the top of the 2nd pitch is just stellar.
I wonder about the rappel route on Zoro, that could be even better up that headwall. But the position, the exposure and the awesome summit, well... hard to beat. Certainly one of my most favorite FAs. Bit of a walk for three pitches though :-)

What is the left side of the block like ? Does it involve a move from one thin crack to another ? If this is the E face, then I suppose I could have had left and right also reversed.

The Supai wrangle you mention I believe is the LB and ? (Stan) route done a year or two after this one.
By jayci
From: Flagstaff
Sep 6, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This is a true adventure! The approach is most likely the hardest approach to climb a desert tower I have ever done. The climb down the gully is probably a consistant 45 degrees. If you pick the wrong route through the bushes, you'll find yourself in the most horrible forest of Mexican Locust. Also, the climbing is full value and then some for the grade and size of the route.
By Danny G.
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
May 15, 2016
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

2-60m ropes if rapping Pegasus (I could see using 1-70m if rapping S.Face)
2-.3 c4 (aka BD Camalots)
2-.4 c4
2-.5 c4
2-.75 c4
3-1.0 c4
3-2.0 c4
3-3.0 c4
1-4.0 c4
2-3 medium/large hexes
2-3 medium/large nuts
Lots of slings (~dozen plus some draws)

I thought this was a great route with a bit of "burl" but a lot of great climbing. Here's some info that might be helpful.
P1 (~80 feet) The start on left side of big flake was well protected (I did place a hex in a pod where cam wasn't as good - yeah hexes!) and steep with cool moves. Right side start didn't look inviting at all. Gear belay on big ledge in 3-4" crack. 5.10
P2 (~150 feet) Move belay Left ~60 feet to base of pitch by pine tree. This pitch takes a lot of pieces (for me, anyways). It's very long and sustained but not a ton of ow since the crack varies in size quite a bit and a few face holds can be found. I wish I had taped, the Rock is fairly sharp. I used a #4 to protect the exit from start pod then cleaned it and was glad to have a #1 cam for exiting the last pod near top (last hard move). Belay at awesome huge tree with contoured seat, you've earned it. 5.10++ full value, indeed!
P3 (~140 feet) is really fun (about as close as GC gets to Red Rocks face holds) and takes an assortment of gear straight to the Incredible summit 5.10-. I belayed on 3" gear anchor at edge of the really cool summit slab. Maybe save a #3 for that.

Make sure you start early so you can enjoy the summit, it's pristine and super deluxe. DKish and I spent over an hour basking in the glory and toasting to the spirit of our friend Ed George...honoring him with a shot from the flask and celebrating the "Ed-venture" we were having.
Descent: explored a bit but couldn't find first Pegasus rap anchor (something about a flask?) so went down S face rap.

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