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 ADVANCED
Peewee Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Oui Oui, The T 
Peewee's Piton S 
PePe LePew TR 
Reverend Dick Shook, The T 
Span-nish Fly T 
Wee Willy Winkie TR 

Peewee's Piton 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob Gaines, Todd Gordon & Dirk Addis, December 1998
Page Views: 998
Submitted By: C Miller on Apr 13, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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BETA PHOTO: Moving from 2nd to 3rd bolt

Description 

Scramble up to a ledge and boulder up to clip a glue-in bolt which protects a mantle up and right onto a ledge below a left-slanting ramp system. Lieback up the ramp to a manky looking fixed pin (a 1" cam can be placed 3' below to back-up the pin) which protects awkward, balancy moves (5.10a) to get established on a small ledge below a section of attractive face. From here the rock quality improves and fun climbing up plated face and friction leads to a sport anchor below the top.

Great moves on this route but the rock quality in the lower portion leaves something to be desired. With time, and more ascents, this will get buffed out and become a popular climb in this area.

Location 

Located on the right side of the north face just right of a prominent right-slanting wide crack, The Belly Scraper and left of another bolted line, The Oui Oui.

Protection 

7 bolts, sport anchors. Optional 1" cam.


Photos of Peewee's Piton Slideshow Add Photo
Peewee Rock as viewed from the parking area. Peewee's Piton (5.10a) and The Oui-Oui (5.10c), the only good routes here, are located on the shaded portion of face.
BETA PHOTO: Peewee Rock as viewed from the parking area. Peewe...
From the base
From the base
The second piece in the photo (piton) protects the crux of Peewee's Piton (5.10a).
The second piece in the photo (piton) protects the...

Comments on Peewee's Piton Add Comment
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By Randy
Apr 13, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun climb, 2 of 5 stars.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
May 3, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

One can clip the lower piton and make a hard move or forget about it and go about 8-10 feet right and take a ramp to the bolt above. From there the left slanting crack takes a small cam along with clipping another piton. The piton is solid for now. The crux requires getting the feet on the face left of the crack as well as moving one's hands out of the ever shallowing crack to the beachball holds on the left. Mantle and its over. 4 more bomber bolts protect easy climbing on super rock to the top. Super nice sport anchors at the top.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Apr 18, 2008
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

As of April 2008, the pitons have been replaced with bolts. A small cam is still useful between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. The move past the first bolt seems WAY harder than 10a to me. The leaning crack bit is funky and fun.
By Colin Schour
From: Big Bear Lake, CA
Mar 21, 2011

Good climb. The move past the first bolt is fun. The run-out at the top also provides for some excitement on easier climbing.
By Richard Shore
Nov 28, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Runout? Not in the least. It's a sport clip-up. Bouldery start that is harder than the advertised 10a, and somewhat height-dependent. Coarse rock that seems to have cleaned up quite nicely. 30 seconds from the campground and you won't find any lines here.
By David Carrera
Apr 11, 2012

10a?!? Shite, I must be the lightest climber around cause I couldn't send this rig at the first bolt. Had no problem with the 10c next door and believe strongly in upholding grades, but 10a for an onsight grade seems like a stretch. Will have to see the beta I guess...
By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Apr 12, 2012

You are correct, Dave......
By David Carrera
Apr 12, 2012

Correct that I'm light?
By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Apr 13, 2012

Correct on the grade;....the opening move is probably 5.10b;...last time I was on the route, I climbed around the route to the right to by-pass the crux.......(I have the old man excuse...)....so no;.....you probably aren't as "light" as you are sand-bagged.....