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The Highlands aka Highlander
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Peer Review 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Richard Wright, 1994, FFA: (below the roof) A. Nelson, 1997
Page Views: 4,088
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Apr 23, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47)
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Pat moving onto the face.
Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a killer line! A simple concept: run up the left side (face) of the main dihedral, pull a small roof, chase on up to a second roof, a head wall, and the anchors all for close to 100 feet. The problem is that it never worked out that way; not yet anyway. The bolt on the first roof was placed on rappel with the recognition that it would very likely have to move once the proper sequence through the roof was determined.

In 1996, I watched Pat Adams slip right by, he said 5.13?, but he did not continue to the anchor. He indicated that a better place for the bolt would be 3 feet to the right, so the upper section still has not been done free from beginning to end. Interestingly, the climbing above this first roof is never harder than 5.11c. In 1997, I placed an anchor below the first roof, producing a 70 ft line at 5.12b/c and this was quickly red pointed, first by Alan Nelson in the Spring of 1997.

Enough history. Peer Review begins off the ledge at the base of the main dihedral on Highlander Crag. Start in the flake and crack system and fight up to the divergence with Peer Pressure. As the pump sets in, you pick up some good edges and reasonable feet. Launch into the white head wall with two incipient seams. Hang tight and watch the feet. The sixth clip is creepy but not unsafe. With a fresh start it is probably not harder than 5.11c to get to it, but the pump factor makes it feel a bit desperate.

Chase the seams for two clips or so, and jog back left at the top of the right hand seam on horrible feet and solid 5.12b finger edges for the crux, just below the anchor. Clip the anchor by stepping all of the way around to the left, Beta-max reveals a shallow pocket left of the anchor but user-friendly only when you are "eye-ball to eye-ball" with the hold. The anchor should be at your shoulder, and clipping lower is more desperate. Three stars for sure. Continuity, power, great climbing moves, excellent stone, and good pro make this a must do for a Highlander trip.


Protection 

QDs only. This 70 foot route needs 9 - 10 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. If you push on over the roof, the route is 100 feet from the anchor to the ledge and needs double ropes or a 60 m rope.



Photos of Peer Review Slideshow Add Photo
Final nice moves on the crack before launching into the crux.
Final nice moves on the crack before launching int...
Joe with one move left before the anchor.
Joe with one move left before the anchor.
Joe using the wing-span solution and showing some muscle to his appreciative audience.
Joe using the wing-span solution and showing some ...
Joe, fini.
Joe, fini.
Fail )
Fail )
Pat Burwick pulling out of the crack.
Pat Burwick pulling out of the crack.
Pat sewing it up.
Pat sewing it up.
Cruxin'.
Cruxin'.
.
.
Joe Huggins setting up the dynamic crux.
Joe Huggins setting up the dynamic crux.
Fun sequence!
Fun sequence!
Tackling the thin seams.
Tackling the thin seams.
Startin' the business.
Startin' the business.
Comments on Peer Review Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 24, 2014
By Brian Baucom
Apr 15, 2002

Is there a new bolt on this line?

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Apr 15, 2002

Indeed. Someone retrobolted the roof sequence, and hopefully for the better. I had solved everything except this roof move several years ago but could not pull off the move as originally intended. The new solution comes in from the left to gain the face above the roof. From there on up it never gets harder than mid 5.11.

By Tod Anderson
Aug 9, 2002

Indeed, several new bolts added as part of a test of the Dewalt hammer drill. The drill worked great although I was never able to score a promo deal. The left hand var. goes at about 13a, which I almost readpointed in June 02. The right hand variation goes well to & slightly over the lip but after that???? Waiting for cooler weather. If you head up to the final roof expecting only 5.11 I think you're in for a surprise.

By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Aug 9, 2002

Terrific! Moving left always seemed like a reasonable option. Not surprised that it ticked in a bit more difficult, however.

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 19, 2004

I saw the 13a version go by a teacher from CU... so the FFA is down for sure....

By Dave-o
From: Boulder,CO
Mar 8, 2009

The 12b is absolutely fantastic. I've been on almost all the routes at the crag is this by far the best. Not to be missed!!!!

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Mar 9, 2009

Good question, is it? Certainly not much competition.

By slim
Administrator
Nov 4, 2009
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

If the 7th bolt was moved down a couple feet, you could clip it from a rest stance instead of tweaking out a few more moves to a slightly committing clip. It would be an almost perfect route. Good climbing on this one, with a reachy throw to a good crimp.

By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 27, 2011

Super fun climbing and a rad route! Easy climbing for the first 2 bolts leads to the first set of business in the slopey crack. If you have crack technique or you are an avid trad climber, the crack may feel easier. After a few tries, I was able to get some good twisting finger locks which made it significantly easier. Most of the crack down low is strenuous slopers. After the crack, traverse right and get a no hands rest in the corner. From there, crimp up the headwall with some decent sidepulls. The definitive crux at the top looks impossible, but after playing around with it, I realized I could do it. You basically have your right hand on a 2 finger broken crack slot and your left hand is on a VERY small crimp. The feet are poor in this section which makes the deadpoint to the jug harder. Look for a ticked left foot under the last bolt right before the crux. This made the deadpoint to the jug less desperate. Once you're past the crux, you branch out left to the arete and finish the climb. Most people seem to do the top differently. Awesome route though and well-protected the whole way. Pre-hung draws are definitely helpful for the redpoint as a few of the clips up high felt reachy. Do this route!!!!!

By Mike McKinnon
From: Golden, CO
Jul 25, 2011

Great route. Hard for a 12b in CCC. For me this was harder than White Water, River Dance, and Viagra Falls. Harder than TDD, that's for sure.

That deadpoint of the poor crimp at the top is a tough move for me at 5'10" with -1 ape index.

By Mark Wiranowski
May 24, 2012
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

The climb is great and never feels that steep. The feet are pretty good, even on the crux - for tall climbers (I'm 6'0"). However, shorter climbers (below 5'8" ?) may need to step high on much more marginal feet to move off the thin edge handholds. The far right edge on the horizontal below the anchor is most positive. Also, the crack at the bottom is not harder than 5.10 - maybe easy 5.10 if you get the constrictions right. I second the comment above - some clips can feel reachy, so pre-hung draws help (including on the anchor).

By GabeO
From: Denver, CO
Jun 4, 2012

This is the only 5.12 I've ever been on anywhere that shut me down completely. I cruised it to the crux at the top of the headwall and then tried absolutely everything I could think of. Nothing even came close. Had to aid through to the anchor with my tail between my legs. I'm kinda short if that makes any difference.

GO

By slim
Administrator
Jun 4, 2012
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

GabeO, I remember a pretty big throw at the top and being really stretched out with my feet on the small stuff (or maybe jamming/pasting a small seam or something like that). I think this one would be tougher for a person who isn't pretty tall.

By Dave Alie
From: Golden, CO
Aug 24, 2014

Replaced the two carabiners on the chains yesterday, they were starting to get some nice gouges. If those were you biners and you'd like them back, feel free to contact me.