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The Highlands aka Highlander
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Peer Pressure 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Richard Wright, Fall 1994 FFA A. Nelson , R. Wright, 1995
Page Views: 2,547
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Apr 23, 2001

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  • Description 

    Peer Pressure starts off the ledge below the main dihedral that marks the center of the Highlander crag. The left side of the dihedral is marked by a flaring crack for 20 feet. Two routes start on a flake that leads into the crack and diverge where there crack ends, 20 ft above. The crack itself is a bit dirty, although it has cleaned up with use. Peer Pressure fires up and left at the top of the crack. Peer Review stays on the face. The crack section overhangs and flares, so the start of both routes is probably solid 5.11d. I find it still to be strenuous after many, many trips up this route. Turn the corner on the left above the crack on Peer Pressure for about 5.12a and enter a short, right-facing dihedral with a good chance to chill. The top of the dihedral segues into a wide stemming problem on smears and poor feet for another 5.12a section. This is very well bolted and offers little chance for a fall, so just focus on keeping the smears working. Chase up to a small roof with an in-obvious solution and a stretch of 5.11, four more clips, and the anchor. Three stars for the varied climbing overall, the continuity, and the largely excellent rock.

    Protection 

    QD only. This 100 foot route needs 13 to 14 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top. A 60 m rope is mandatory unless you are climbing on double ropes. Caution: the route is 100 feet from the anchor to the starting ledge, not to the ground!!


    Comments on Peer Pressure Add Comment
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    By Anonymous Coward
    Aug 31, 2002

    The most difficult moves on this route for me involved moving around the corner above the crack, with a difficult clip and weird, reachy moves...what was my problem? Even on TR this section felt quite hard, more challenging than the stemming/slab bit higher above the ledge rest and quite a bit burlier than the crack section, IMHO. Anyone have any tips for this part? Thanks.
    By Richard M. Wright
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Aug 31, 2002

    Good tight turns with a hint of drop knee makes the reaches seem casual. Just don't do it face on - burns way too much energy better spent on the 16 oz curl.
    By TBD
    May 3, 2004
    rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    This is a truely great sport climb. Long, great position, and a fun variety of climbing. You get a bit of everything on this one. The left traverse after the crack start is a bit intimidating, but is well protected. Sort of a faith filled toss to a sidepull of unknown size. The exit of the shallow dihedral was certainly the crux for me, thin and strenuous. The only exception I would make to the description above is that if the crack section was in a more traditional area it would probably be considered 5.10.

    Fabulous route, great vision by the route setter.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Aug 14, 2005

    This route kicks ass. Seems solid for the grade.
    By Darren Mabe
    From: Flagstaff, AZ
    Aug 29, 2005
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    Probably not a move of 12 on it, but lots of 11 moves. Brilliant movement moving around the corner, and connecting to the flake above!

    The climbing on the last few clips was a little out of character, but still fun.

    With a 70m, you can go up and down from the ground, and not the ledge; with a couple feet of rope to spare.

    Watch for drag with a couple of runners (bolt 1, and the bolt before the traverse, bolt 3 or 4 i think).
    By ac
    Aug 29, 2005

    If this thing is 11d, then "Garret's Revenge" really is 11a....

    Awesome climb!
    By adampeters
    From: Salt Lake City, Utah
    Dec 25, 2007
    rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

    Ole sandbaggin' Mabe, this thing is surely not 11d, ole boy. I felt like the grade was fair at a/b, don't let ole Mabe trick you on this one. It is still a great route, get on it.
    By Darren Mabe
    From: Flagstaff, AZ
    Dec 29, 2007
    rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

    Ok, Peterman. 12a in the Book.
    Woot!
    By adampeters
    From: Salt Lake City, Utah
    Jan 7, 2008
    rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

    Haha, thanks for meeting me halfway, I was concerned.
    By Elijah Flenner
    Nov 28, 2009
    rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

    I found the upper crux to be quite hard in the hot November sun (it was pretty warm). Cool conditions helps on this climb.

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