Peels of Laughter
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British R
Avg: 2.5 from 31 votes
Type: | Trad, 110 ft (33 m) |
FA: | Fitch (1975) |
Page Views: | 2,838 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Matthew Fienup on Aug 15, 2006 |
Admins: | andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Easy but unprotected climbing up the corner leads to a shallow horizontal ledge (5.4). Alternately, climb the face six feet right of the corner (5.6/5.7). Foot traverse right along the ledge until reaching a crack. Gratefully place a piece or two as you climb the crack up to an obvious overhang. Foot traverse left to the corner. Bypass the roof on the left-hand side. Climb the airy and exposed arete past two bolts to the top.
The true crux of the route is passing the second bolt (at 80 feet) which involves a committing and somewhat awkward mantel (5.7). Many people risk a significant swing and bypass the crux by traversing 6 feet right on the ledge and climbing face holds to the top (5.6).
The route is 110 feet long!! Do not try to rappel the route with a 60m rope. The only way to run a redirected toprope is to extend your anchor 10 feet below the two bolts out on the arete. NOTE: multiple directionals must be used when toproping in order to avoid a swing of up to 30 feet!
The true crux of the route is passing the second bolt (at 80 feet) which involves a committing and somewhat awkward mantel (5.7). Many people risk a significant swing and bypass the crux by traversing 6 feet right on the ledge and climbing face holds to the top (5.6).
The route is 110 feet long!! Do not try to rappel the route with a 60m rope. The only way to run a redirected toprope is to extend your anchor 10 feet below the two bolts out on the arete. NOTE: multiple directionals must be used when toproping in order to avoid a swing of up to 30 feet!
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