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Middle Cathedral Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Border Country 
Bottom Feeder 
Cat Dancing 
Central Pillar of Frenzy 
Desperate for Doughnuts 
Direct North Buttress (DNB) 
East Buttress 
Flakes, The 
Ho Chi Minh Trail 
Home Run 
North Buttress 
Paradise Lost 
Pee Pee Pillar 
Rainbow bridge 
Spank Your Monkey 
Stoner's Highway 
Stupid Pet Tricks 
Tears of Joy 
Unsorted Routes:

Pee Pee Pillar 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Peter Barton, Eric Schoen, George Meyers, Bob Ashworth 1974
Page Views: 1,406
Submitted By: Nate Weitzel on Oct 8, 2006
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Single pitch route that is an excellent warm up for the other routes at the base. Climbs a nice dihedral right of the start of Paradise Lost, and left of the DNB. Invloves finger locks, laybacks and stemming. Watch out for some polished feet during the crux. Gear is solid.


As above, start right of Paradise lost in an obvious dihedral and follow the crack to a bolted anchor. Single 60m rope will get you down.


Standard rack; nuts and cams from 3/8 " size to 2.5"

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By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Feb 4, 2007

Not bad if you are in the area.... very slick in spots. Easy to top rope after someone tops out.
Watch for rockfall around the base of Middle.

By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Oct 7, 2007

I'll second Russ' warning on rock fall. Good idea to leave your helmet on in this area.

By Matt Desenberg
From: Wells, Me
May 3, 2009

Great pro from what I remember, short crux. Not a bad first .10 lead in the valley

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 15, 2011

Excellent climb. Two cruxes... one right at the bottom and then the layback. Great gear. I didn't place anything larger than a #2 camalot.