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Central Gully Left
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Beautiful Possibilities T 
Golden Fleece T 
Pedro T 
Squeakeasy T 

Pedro 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13 [details]
FA: 
Season: spring or fall
Page Views: 41
Submitted By: sibylle on May 26, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Leading Pedro, an Australian 10 (5.5?)

Description 

This route, rated Australian 10, which translates to 5.5, is very enjoyable but felt harder than any 5.5 I've climbed in the States. Head up, and left of, the large crack partway up the left side of the Central gully.

Location 

HIke up the left side of the Central Gully toward the obvious large crack / corner.

Protection 

Nuts, cams,


Photos of Pedro Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 5.5 ?
5.5 ?
Rock Climbing Photo:  Pedro, an Australian 10 (5.5?)
Pedro, an Australian 10 (5.5?)
Rock Climbing Photo: Nice crack!
Nice crack!
Rock Climbing Photo: Pedro, on the Central Gully left
Pedro, on the Central Gully left
Rock Climbing Photo: Pedro
Pedro

Comments on Pedro Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Apr 11, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This route is not PG13 in the slightest, though definitely harder than 5.5... let's just say grade conversion isn't an exact science.
By sibylle
From: Colorado
Apr 13, 2016

Thanks! What would you rate it -- it's been a few years since I climbed Pedro.
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Apr 13, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I gave it a 5.7, but I didn't lead it either. I started climbing at Smith Rock and spent a lot of time learning trad in Colorado. Arapiles has the same old-school grading, but a lot of the classic moderates are just straight sandbagged.

Tiptoe Ridge is 5.0?
The traverse on the Bard is 5.5?
The second pitch of Lamplighter is 5.7?

So, out of respect for that style of grading, sure, Pedro is a 5.7. But for the most part, do the grades accurately translate? Not so much.

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