|259 page views|
Climb up the wide crack continuing straight up after it narrows. At roughly 30 feet, trend left near a potatoe-sized cactus (June 2010) to a smaller crack: the "middle crack" of Clark's guide? Follow this right-trending crack to where it naturally ends, stepping right into a wider crack (approx 2 inch gear where it necks down). Continue up through the well-protected crux (5.6 or 5.7) and beyond.
After the fifth class climbing, I passed up the big ledge and continued higher up the gully to a roughly 1 1/2 foot diameter juniper; be careful to not send down rocks!
Descent is as for the Cave Woman formation which stands about 30 yards to the south, passing through a rubble field.
The route is to climber's left of both Cave Woman and Shoes for Industry. Probably, the best thing is to find the characteristic roof of Shoes for Industry: short, reddish face to yellow lichen below a smallish triangular roof with finger crack above. Then look back left for the "monolithic slab" described in Gary Clark's guide. This slab stands out from the general surface of the cliff that extends to the right of this slab. The "monolithic slab" is fairly broken with cracks, more so in the lower half. We started up an approximate 2 foot wide crack that quickly narrows down after 10 or 15 feet.
Standard rack to 2 or 3 inches. I only say "3 inches" because I can't recall if I used my number 3; either way, it likely was not needed. Tree anchor at top.
|Comments on Pedernal Cracks
|By Howard Snell|
From: Belen, New Mexico
Jun 15, 2011
We stayed in the crack on the right side. Crux was a flaring section of hand jams where the crack was surprisingly smooth. Whole route was a great opportunity to use natural protection via slings and girth hitches on chockstones. That crux felt a bit more like 5.7, but I'm a newbie.
|By Brett Kettering|
3 days ago
After consulting with ER regulars, Steve Reneau and I installed a bolted anchor station with chains and rapid links at about 30m, on a nice ledge with a good stance. The hangers and bolts are Fixe hardware rated at 30 kn. The chains and rapid links are by Reese for towing, and rated at 5,000 lbs. Enjoy it in good health. No more need to scramble off the top, build anchors, or risk injury hiking down.