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Long Canyon North
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Peccadillo 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Ruckman and Olson, 1988
Page Views: 1,890
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on Mar 1, 2002

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Brian Milhaupt on pitch 2

Description 

Park near the last campsite on the right. Shortly after this site there is a sign, "No camping beyond this point". Look up right for the most obvious approach where the talus breaks the lower cliffline. Once above the lower cliffline, hike left along the faint trail at the base of the rock for approximately 100 yards, looking for the first hand sized crack with flakes that jut left nearly 3/4 up the route. There is a plaque at the base. This is a desert classic, or should be. I felt like I encountered just about everything a desert crack has to offer; thin parts, steep parts, long sheer jamming, crazy flakes, and offwidthing. These two pitches could easily be combined into one spectacular 195' pitch. Pitch 1 5.10 hands, 45'. Pitch 2 is wide hands for 100', followed by flakes with good pro in the crack behind them. After the flakes is a thin bulge leading to a Crack of Fear like offwidth that will make you contemplate jumping for the anchors. Watch for a loose block just before the flakes. Two rope decent.


Protection 

Sizes in BD Camalot: one #1, several #2, 8ish #3, 1 #4 for the short OW before the anchors



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By Bryson Slothower
Apr 13, 2002

I'd add about 4 Red Bulls to the gear list for this awesome route!

By powerandrubber
Dec 3, 2011

Finally got around to doing this awesome route. 5 stars for sure but there's a little sand and choss avoidance adventure as it doesn't get gang banged like the creek (thankfully). For finding it don't follow DR (it's technically correct but overly complicated directions). Simply set the odometer to 0 when turning onto long canyon from potash and go 1.2 miles. Pull over and look for an obvious orange talus slope/gully cutting through the chinle cliff bands. Go up this slope to the base and walk left a couple hundred yards and look for the plaque and a long wide hands splitter with flakes toward the top. It's a good cold weather route but does go in the shade early afternoon in Nov. One mega pitch is definitely the way to go. The 1st pitch is really short and only has only 1 old bolt. 8-10 blue camalots would be nice though it would take a couple 3.5 camalots in places. (3) gold, (1) red, and an old 4 or new 5. Classic.

By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Nov 6, 2013
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

10 #3's wouldn't go unused on this excellent route!