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This is not a very independent route, but the climbing is excellent.
Find the directions for "Fool's Gold
", listed on this site. Pebble Beach climbs the first half to the right-leaning dihedral. Pull straight up over the headwall on good jugs that afford good pro. Then head almost straight left. Ken Trout's old rock and ice guide from '86 says "Dave says there is a nut placement out there somewhere". [It's] true. Too bad it is only about 8 feet from your previous placement. You can't really see it until you are almost on top of it. From there, punch it straight up to the "Beam Me Up Scotty
" anchors, or up and left to the anchors for "Buffalo Soldier
". you can TR it pretty easily from the "... Scotty
From here, you can rap with 2 ropes, or take one of the upper pitches to the top (5.7 to 5.9, scarce pro).
Couple quickdraws, runners, light rack from stoppers to thin hands cams.
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Jun 29, 2009
Actually, Dave Dunblazer led this with Kat as a 5.10X, not TR, about 1984. Dave used the first two bolts on Scotty Beam Me Up, then went up left, past a seam that took a smaller wire and all the way up to the Scotty anchor, without using anymore bolts.
It is more common to top rope this from the Scotty anchor.