Type: | Trad, TR, 160 ft (48 m) |
FA: | Dave Dunblazier, ~1984 |
Page Views: | 2,132 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | slim on Sep 30, 2005 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is not a very independent route, but the climbing is excellent.
Find the directions for "Fool's Gold", listed on this site. Pebble Beach climbs the first half to the right-leaning dihedral. Pull straight up over the headwall on good jugs that afford good pro. Then head almost straight left. Ken Trout's old rock and ice guide from '86 says "Dave says there is a nut placement out there somewhere". [It's] true. Too bad it is only about 8 feet from your previous placement. You can't really see it until you are almost on top of it. From there, punch it straight up to the "Beam Me Up Scotty" anchors, or up and left to the anchors for "Buffalo Soldier". you can TR it pretty easily from the "... Scotty" anchors.
From here, you can rap with 2 ropes, or take one of the upper pitches to the top (5.7 to 5.9, scarce pro).
Find the directions for "Fool's Gold", listed on this site. Pebble Beach climbs the first half to the right-leaning dihedral. Pull straight up over the headwall on good jugs that afford good pro. Then head almost straight left. Ken Trout's old rock and ice guide from '86 says "Dave says there is a nut placement out there somewhere". [It's] true. Too bad it is only about 8 feet from your previous placement. You can't really see it until you are almost on top of it. From there, punch it straight up to the "Beam Me Up Scotty" anchors, or up and left to the anchors for "Buffalo Soldier". you can TR it pretty easily from the "... Scotty" anchors.
From here, you can rap with 2 ropes, or take one of the upper pitches to the top (5.7 to 5.9, scarce pro).
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