Peasants Into Leaders  V7 R

737 page views Good page?

Type:  Boulder, Alpine, 30 feet Consensus:  V7 [details] FA:  Ben Scott Season:  Alpine Submitted By:  tcamillieri on Sep 19, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Sock Hands committing to the final section on Peas...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

The majority of these boulders are located within the Mt Evans Wilderness Area, which is regulated & patrolled by the US Forest Service. Climber MORE INFO >>> The majority of these boulders are located within the Mt Evans Wilderness Area, which is regulated & patrolled by the US Forest Service. Climbers should be on their best behavior, practice Leave No Trace, and please abide by these requirements: - Approach Areas A, B, & C via the Chicago Lakes trail (from Echo Lake). - Wilderness Permits are required for all visitors to any federal Wilderness Area. Permits are free and self-issued. A kiosk is located at the point where the Chicago Lakes Trail departs from the reservoir, at the entrance to the Wilderness Area. - Group size: travel in federal Wilderness Areas is limited to groups of 15 people or less. If you find yourself in an area, say around the Dali Boulder, where there are more than 15 people, please disperse. There are plenty of excellent boulders elsewhere. - Minimize creation of social trails. None of the trails surrounding the bouldering area are officially maintained by the USFS. Ample access trails currently exist, please stay on the existing trails, and do not create any more trails. - Do not destroy vegetation. This is a fragile alpine environment, with a short growing season. It can take vegetation decades to recover from damage. Place crash pads judiciously, and keep brushing to a minimum. Before adding new lines, considered the damage that may be caused by additional foot traffic, pad placement, etc. - Chalk is un-sightly to non-climbers. Please avoid chalking up boulder problems that are visible from the Chicago Lakes Trail, and in general, keep chalk use to a minimum. Brush all tick marks off after every sesssion. Use containers that prevent chalk spills. If you do spill your chalk, clean it up. - Stashing crash pads is expressly forbidden by the USFS. Any pads found by USFS personnel will be confiscated. - Noise: This is a wilderness area (did I mention that?) that is enjoyed by many, mostly non-climbers. The last thing passing hikers want to hear are your self-indulgent f-bombs, I-Pod speakers, grunting, etc. In fact, most other CLIMBERS don't want to hear any of these things either. The easiest way for us to loose access is to elicit complaints from other user groups. - Dogs must be leashed at all times. Consider others when deciding whether or not to bring your dog, specfically considering that dogs like to scare away wildlife, and most other users would prefer not to have the wildlife scared away. Obviously, clean up after your dog. Remember that we are guests in this area. Be respectful of other users and the USFS Rangers that manage this area. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is the striking highball line to the left of Pink Fink and Snow White.

There are two cruxes. The power crux is the start which features a large move to a sloping hold. The second crux is a reach from a high step after having established on the crimps in the dominant seam.

Beta: Underclings to start, left foot on first, jump right foot on. Long reach with right hand to a sloping crack. Match. Cross left hand to a decent hold and get feet up on smears. Left foot out on a smear (not the higher one), and reach out left of the overlap to a good left facing sidepull crimp at the beginning of the seam. Walk right foot through to a cup shaped smear (good). Right hand gets a decent gaston. High step smear by your shoulder and commit (lift off the good right foot) to a decent left hand sidepull. Right foot up and grab the ledge (not as good as it looks--features two crimps on the left side). Left hand up to a knob sidepull undercling and bring your right foot onto the ledge. Then work the (thankfully good) sidepulls and gastons low in the seam. Stand up tall and reach around right to crimps around the sloping ledge (the seam continues back on this ledge). Match the crimps and mantle onto the sloping ledge, stand up and reach the lip. Easy top out. Warning: do not go left upon reaching the crimps on the sloping ledge, there is nothing there but hideously greasy slopers. One of the 5 best highballs at Evans.

Location 

Begin on underclings, a decent right foot, and a left foot smear. It is hard to start. This can be seen by looking up valley from the top of the boulder with The Ladder.

Protection 

3-4 pads. Spotters who like you. High injury potential.

Photos of Peasants Into Leaders Slideshow

Add Photo

BETA PHOTO: Bennett Scott starting up on the FA of Peasants In...