|Type:||Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 250', Grade II|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a C1 [details]|
|FA:||Paul Ross Jeff Pheasant .|
|Submitted By:||Little Chamonix on Dec 2, 2009|
|Comments on Pearly Gates||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Bill Duncan
From: Jamestown, CO
Apr 30, 2010
|This is a very aesthetic place to be. Casual route, as advertised. Be very careful with rope placement on the rap, as the rap station is not ideally located for pulling lines. We were very careful and still got a core shot.|
By A. Roberts
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 21, 2011
|The webbing on the rap was is bad shape. We extended it to reach over the edge. We were able to get all the way to the ground with one double rope rap, and had no problem pulling them. Not the most "classic" of routes, but a fun diversion.|
By James Hicks
From: Denver, CO
Nov 26, 2013
Just be aware that there is pretty much zero gear on the second pitch until you get to the belay ledge below the bolt ladder.
Also, there is now a bolt on the first pitch. It looked pretty new and shiny, although I'm not sure of the purpose since its in an area of super easy climbing (walking). The rap is still a pain, but I'm not sure there is really a way to make it any better. You might want to bring some long webbing if you head up, the rap anchor looked good but some of it was definitely aging.
By Little Chamonix
Mar 27, 2014
|The bolt on the first pitch was used for the descent as the party climbed down the ramp and use it to safe guard last few feet to the ground.|
By david goldstein
Apr 3, 2014
Very worth doing, consider making it a two pack with Tombstone.
That said, OP's rack recommendation is loony.
A #4 Camalot would protect the first crux, otherwise there is no pro
A medium nut can be placed after the first crux, at the start of the traverse, to protect the 2nd
A #6 Camalot might protect the second crux, otherwise there is no pro.
A .5 Camalot provides a decent anchor piece at the 2nd belay to supplement the detached block that people seem to sling as the primary/only anchor.
A #3 Camalot protects the wild exit move.
The the exit move which I did differently than Frankie P. did in A. Roberts photo is likely the wildest passage I have ever encountered in the grade range.
We didn't have any problem pulling our ropes after the rap.