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 ADVANCED
Lost World Butte
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Pearly Gates 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a C1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 250', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a C1 [details]
FA: Paul Ross Jeff Pheasant .
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,776
Submitted By: USBRIT on Dec 2, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Jon B trying to find some sport on the 2nd pitch.

Description 

P1)Begin up the ramp,passed a 5.4 section at 25' to cam belays below two large cracks.140'P2)Continue easy climbing between the cracks to a good ledge and cam belay 5.5 60'P3 Follow 6 bolts up the slightly overhanging headwall to bolt belays.C1 50'.From here one can hike to the west summit and register.Descent. Rap from bolts about 80' left of the top belay anchors . One 130' rap to the ramp then follow ramp to the ground

Location 

The route climbs the obvious easy looking right slanting ramp. One of the easiest climbs in the desert that takes one onto the tops of a beautiful Butte with excellent views.

Protection 

Friends two # 2.5 one #3 aiders, two 60m ropes for the rappel.


Photos of Pearly Gates Slideshow Add Photo
View of the last belay from halfway up the last pitch.
View of the last belay from halfway up the last pi...
P1 The easy Ramp
P1 The easy Ramp
The climb . Situated in the center section of the Butte.
The climb . Situated in the center section of the ...
P3 P.Ross on first ascent .The headwall
P3 P.Ross on first ascent .The headwall
View southwest from the 3rd pitch belay
View southwest from the 3rd pitch belay
Jon B topping out
Jon B topping out
Frankie P about to make the final exciting move off of the last piton.
Frankie P about to make the final exciting move of...

Comments on Pearly Gates Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bill Duncan
From: Jamestown, CO
Apr 30, 2010

This is a very aesthetic place to be. Casual route, as advertised. Be very careful with rope placement on the rap, as the rap station is not ideally located for pulling lines. We were very careful and still got a core shot.
By A. Roberts
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 21, 2011

The webbing on the rap was is bad shape. We extended it to reach over the edge. We were able to get all the way to the ground with one double rope rap, and had no problem pulling them. Not the most "classic" of routes, but a fun diversion.
By James Hicks
From: Denver, CO
Nov 26, 2013

Just be aware that there is pretty much zero gear on the second pitch until you get to the belay ledge below the bolt ladder.

Also, there is now a bolt on the first pitch. It looked pretty new and shiny, although I'm not sure of the purpose since its in an area of super easy climbing (walking). The rap is still a pain, but I'm not sure there is really a way to make it any better. You might want to bring some long webbing if you head up, the rap anchor looked good but some of it was definitely aging.
By USBRIT
From: Cumbria.UK
Mar 27, 2014

The bolt on the first pitch was used for the descent as the party climbed down the ramp and use it to safe guard last few feet to the ground.
By david goldstein
Apr 3, 2014

Very worth doing, consider making it a two pack with Tombstone.

That said, OP's rack recommendation is loony.
A #4 Camalot would protect the first crux, otherwise there is no pro
A medium nut can be placed after the first crux, at the start of the traverse, to protect the 2nd
A #6 Camalot might protect the second crux, otherwise there is no pro.
A .5 Camalot provides a decent anchor piece at the 2nd belay to supplement the detached block that people seem to sling as the primary/only anchor.
A #3 Camalot protects the wild exit move.

The the exit move which I did differently than Frankie P. did in A. Roberts photo is likely the wildest passage I have ever encountered in the grade range.

We didn't have any problem pulling our ropes after the rap.