|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 120'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||Larry Bruce, Brian Kew, Rick Jack 1972|
|Submitted By:||Scott Conner on May 5, 2003|
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Peapod Crack (aka Bloody Knees)||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Shane Z
May 31, 2003
|Bloody Knees is an appropriate name for Peapod Crack. The fun part starts about half way up the crack with good jams to the top. I used three #2 camalots, three #1 camalots, two #3 camalots, and two #3.5 camalots. Well recommended, but a bit warm at the end of May. Neosporin is your friend!|
By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Apr 22, 2007
"Jam wide hands...sustained hand crack...wide section". This according to Stewart Green's Rock Climbing Utah. "Heinous...offwidth... grovel-fest." This according to Perin and Gwen Blanchard.
We got rained out at Indian Creek in the morning and thought, "This sounds like a nice hand crack; let's go find it." There is a "flaring wide" section near the start that I wriggled up like it was a flaring squeeze chimney, then two more wide sections above. It is possible that the total length of the hand (and fist) sections are longer than the offwidth sections, but it sure took longer in the grovel parts. I guess the route name should have been a clue.
I placed a #5 and a #6 Camalot C4 and was glad to have them. I placed a #2 Friend as my first piece and then I remember nothing smaller than a #2 C4. There is also no fixed pin as described in Rock Climbing Utah, although I did see a chopped bolt.
The verdict, as we stood at the anchors, was "That wasn't very fun. Glad we did it." Of course, by then the pain was over.
By Stewart M. Green
Jan 14, 2008
|Steve Cheyney did the FA of this route as well as gave it the name Bloody Knees in either 1970 or 1971. He also did a couple other routes here back then.|
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Mar 27, 2009
|Bloody knees is apt. This climb made me sweat! make sure you bring a couple #2 and #3 sized camalots and probably at least 1 #4.5. I only had one of each and ended up walking them up, downclimbing to retrieve them, and running it out. at least its relatively secure.|
By Aaron Martinuzzi
Apr 19, 2009
|Perin's comments are spot on. Lots of cams in the larger-than-#3-friend-range. I didn't have them and rather than run it out I down-climbed. Back-cleaning, walking, and down-climbing is not fun.|
By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
May 8, 2009
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
|Seemed a bit easier than Bloody Elbows to me, as there are lots of places on this one to rest comfortably, but maybe that perception is biased because I didn't lead BK. Most awkward bit is a bulge early on. On the wider bits higher up you can practice hand-stacks! VS 5a in Yorkshire.|
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Mar 14, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
I placed 10 pieces of pro on this climb- all new style BD C4's. I used 2 #1's, 2 #2's, 2 #3's, yep, you guessed it 2 #4's, 1 #5 (though I would've placed a second one if I had it) and 1 #6. You could get by without the #6, but since I almost never get to use mine I took advantage of the climb to bring it outside. The moves were just insecure enough to make me think, but it's the 140' length of offwidth and wide hand moves that make me give it the + rating.
And beware: this climb ate up my friend's rope when he pulled it down. He even climbed up to retrieve it but ended up cutting off about 20'. Make sure you stand back and waaaay to the left.
And, oh yeah, so much harder than Bloody Elbows.