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Peanuts Walls

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Lower Peanuts 
Upper Peanuts 

Peanuts Walls  


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Elevation: 6,000'
Location: 39.92864, -105.28669 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 162,251
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Mar 20, 2006
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Topo for Lower Peanuts. Photo by Myke Komarnitsky...

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

There are two smaller, distinct, north-facing crags that make up the Peanuts Walls -Upper and Lower. Here you will find routes from 1-4 pitches in length. No route here is exceptionally easy nor difficult. These crags have an advantage of shade in the summer heat and as a result Upper Peanuts Wall has some of the most striking lichens in all of Eldorado Canyon. Here, you may feel the feeling of being up with the birds while still close to the ground. Also, there are benefits of some element of isolation with excellent views of the entire northern half of Eldorado Canyon, in particular Redgarden Wall and the West Ridge.

While no climb here is likely to be top twenty in Eldorado Canyon, you can find delightful terrain for traditional-oriented, moderate climber. Some of the gems here include: Star Wars, 5.8; the namesake route, Peanuts (opened by the amazing Layton Kor & Charles Roskosz in 1961), 5.9; Heavy Weather, 5.9; Forbidden Planet, 5.11a/b; Gravity's Angel, 5.11b; Sunrider, 5.11b; Just Another Girl's Climb, 5.12a/b S, and the runout Advanced Rockcraft, 5.12b VS.

Note there is still some loose rock here in places. Caution and helmets may be advisable. Ken Black, on the first free ascent of The Shield, fell to his death after pulling a large block off and chopping his rope.

Descents involve either rappelling or walkoff/scramble off to the climber's right.

Note, this is not a child nor dog friendly area.

Getting There 

There are several ways of approaching the wall. The easiest access is achieved by parking at the western end of the park, possibly at the Rattlesnake Gulch trailhead (about 150m West of the Milton Boulder). Then, head east on this nearly-flat, Fowler Trail probably 1/4 mile until you are below these two crags. Ascend a non-erosive path up the talus field with some boulder hopping to Lower Peanuts. If you are headed to Upper Peanuts, continue around up and to the right of Lower Peanuts Wall

The other way of getting here is to hike up the Bastille Trail then head West until you're below the talus field.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.4 miles from here

56 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',13],['Bomb',6]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',6],['5.8',8],['5.9',5],['5.10',12],['5.11',14],['5.12',5],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Peanuts Walls:
Your Basic Lieback   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch   Lower Peanuts
Dihedral   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch   Lower Peanuts
West Crack (aka Star Wars)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches   Lower Peanuts
Cornered, straight up variation   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad   Lower Peanuts
Heavy Weather   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches   Upper Peanuts
Peanuts   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   Lower Peanuts
Blows Against the Empire   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Lower Peanuts
Do or Do Not   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Lower Peanuts
Gravity's Angel   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   Upper Peanuts
Home Free   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad   Lower Peanuts
Forbidden Planet   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   Lower Peanuts
Scorpions   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Lower Peanuts
Young, Blonde, and Easy   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Lower Peanuts
Sunrider   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   Upper Peanuts
Just Another Girl's Climb   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport   Lower Peanuts
Advanced Rockcraft   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   Upper Peanuts
The Sacred and the Profane   5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c R     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   Lower Peanuts
Black Pearl   5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Lower Peanuts
Browse More Classics in Peanuts Walls

Featured Route For Peanuts Walls
The Sacred and the Profane follows the arete.  The...

The Sacred and the Profane 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c CO : Eldorado Canyon SP : ... : Lower Peanuts
The Sacred and the Profane is a sport climbing history lesson. It's hard to experience the slabby, old school style and sparse bolting on TSATP without being transported back to a time when lycra was king, and footwork, technique, and finesse were the rule. To start TSATP, climb the start of Peanuts, and traverse 30 feet right along an easy ramp until you are below a small roof which is capped by a blunt arete. Clip the first bolt, make some easy moves over the roof, and then setu...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Peanuts Walls
Photos of Peanuts Walls Slideshow Add Photo
Upper Peanuts Wall topo Photo by Myke Komarnitsky
Upper Peanuts Wall topo Photo by Myke Komarnitsky
Peanuts Wall, 3/10/07.
BETA PHOTO: Peanuts Wall, 3/10/07.
The view from Peanuts wall of Redgarden, Shirt Tai...
The view from Peanuts wall of Redgarden, Shirt Tai...

Comments on Peanuts Walls Add Comment
Show which comments
By JVM
Aug 10, 2014
Ok well WTF does "No route here is exceptionally easy nor difficult" mean? Because 5.6 is exceptionally easy and 5.13 is exceptionally difficult you idiot.....
Especially after some turd rips an undercling off.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Aug 10, 2014
JVM, idiot writing here...it means it's a crag probably best for non-beginners and non-high end climbers...which means I would recommend it for the mean +/- 2 SD part of the two tailed curve of climbers.
By Ben Collett
Aug 10, 2014
JVM, what is with the anger? I have climbed a lot with Taylor, and I can assure you that he is not a turd. He is a nice guy and is a good steward to the climbing community. Holds break. Deal with it.
By slim
Administrator
Aug 11, 2014
Crying about a hold breaking at Eldo, that's some funny shit. Calling Taylor a turd? Not so funny....