Peanut Man 

So as to avoid the wet and snowy beginning of this route in the winter, link-up the crux of Underdog, then climb left into the upper section of Peanut Man. I've heard this combo referred to as "Dog Nuts". There is a bit of a run out between the two routes, but it is on mellow terrain. Highly recommended.

There is a fixed line to asist with the actual star when the conditions are bad also. It lets you get up to the ledge to put on shoes and such in confidence.

wow jay.... i first gotta say that ive been looking at that route for a little while puzzling about it and wondering if i was up to the challenge of projecting it......after that phenomenal description... im AMPED to get on it!!!! cant wait! i have found a new proj and im psyched!!! thanks for the amazing description!

I have belayed someone one this route but have not yet been on it, but the route looks sweet, I am looking forward to getting on it for sure!

I did the "dog nuts" link up today... i like it better than the regular start... great route either way...

For "Dog Nuts", does one cut left after the first 4 bolts of Underdog? Or is it after 5 bolts?
Thanks!

Don't clip the draw after the crux- swing into the no hands and traverse left from there.

otey on peanut man on a hot humid summer day...

Jakob sending Peanut Man on a perfect Autumn day in october 2010...
nice job jakob!!!

this recently broke (october 18, 2010, i think). I recovered the broken piece and did what might possibly be the first post-break ascent. WIthout any knowledge of whether or not this is warranted, I am renaming it Peanut Man II, and calling it 15a.

in all seriousness, this may be 12a now. kind of a bummer that the hold broke.

What hold broke, and did it come off cleanly, with no missing pieces?

Shoulda put some peanut butter on the wonder bread that was stuffed up there :(

just before the real crux starts. from the last big jug in the quartzite section, you make a big reach with the right hand past a little crackcrimp up to this pretty good pinch, and from there you locked off with the right hand to reach another left hand crimp before stabbing into the underclimb. That right hand (which was also a good foothold) is no longer a good crimp with a thumb catch, and is now a kind of crappy gaston sloper that you grab to make the lockoff.

I have the missing piece in my room. thought i'd hold on to it for safekeeping in case someone wanted it. i don't think it would work to glue it, plus i don't know what the whole ethics deal with that is. it's still plenty climbable, just kind of a weird move now.

basically the hold he reaches at :38/:39 in the first video

Well, I think I may have reinforced that hold a little when originally I put the route up, but obviously weather and being climbed on for years caught up with it. If it really messed up the route, say for instance making a clip ridiculous or something, and it could be repaired in such a way where it wouldn't be noticeable, I would be for putting it back on, in which case I would like to do it myself, but it sounds like the route goes fine without the full hold. You just clipped off the jug, so that is not an issue. May as well leave it be. We got years out of it. Now we have a little more challenge. Maybe hold on to the piece for a while longer , if you don't mind, in case people want it put back.

my vote is to leave it as is.... rocks break.... its part of the game... i personally hope that it will get rid of that 11d/12a grade and get us settled on a solid number :)

Alright then it's settled: Peanut Man II, 5.15a. If you guys wouldn't mind informing all the appropriate media outlets, it would really save me a hassle.

I did "Peanut Man 2" today and i agree with 5.12a... i like the new move more than the old one, balancy and more memorable... For me that move wasnt a big step harder but the old hold was important as a foot and it made it harder to get up in to the under cling... over all, no loss, we now have a really fun 12a on main cliff :)