Climbing Peanut Man. The orange quartzite band is ...
Peanut Man climbs up the center of Main Cliff proper. Scramble from the ground (easy class four) and gain the raised ledge. Belay at an eyebolt on the far right side of the ledge.
The climb starts out with fun, insecure, 5.10ish climbing up steep orange corners. After passing a piton (it's not necessary to clip this) it is possible to rest off a jug at the top of the orange rock. From here, the rock turns to schist, and if you think that the bulge threatens over you like a black raincloud, then you are entirely correct.
The bulge presents the crux of the route--an upward stab into the obvious undercling. The difficulties continue, however, as the holds turn into slopers, leaving the climber grasping for purchase on the rounded topout. A few easier moves lead to the anchors.
Many shorter people think this climb is harder. A long reach helps a great deal on the final topout.
Note: Peanut Man got the big upgrade (from 11d to 12a) because of a hold breaking on October 18, 2010.
By Chris Duca Administrator From: Havertown, PA Dec 3, 2007 rating: 5.12a7a+25VIII+25E5 6a
So as to avoid the wet and snowy beginning of this route in the winter, link-up the crux of Underdog, then climb left into the upper section of Peanut Man. I've heard this combo referred to as "Dog Nuts". There is a bit of a run out between the two routes, but it is on mellow terrain. Highly recommended.
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Dec 4, 2007 rating: 5.11d7a24VIII25E5 6a
There is a fixed line to asist with the actual star when the conditions are bad also. It lets you get up to the ledge to put on shoes and such in confidence.
wow jay.... i first gotta say that ive been looking at that route for a little while puzzling about it and wondering if i was up to the challenge of projecting it......after that phenomenal description... im AMPED to get on it!!!! cant wait! i have found a new proj and im psyched!!! thanks for the amazing description!
this recently broke (october 18, 2010, i think). I recovered the broken piece and did what might possibly be the first post-break ascent. WIthout any knowledge of whether or not this is warranted, I am renaming it Peanut Man II, and calling it 15a.
in all seriousness, this may be 12a now. kind of a bummer that the hold broke.
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Oct 19, 2010 rating: 5.12a7a+25VIII+25E5 6a
What hold broke, and did it come off cleanly, with no missing pieces?
just before the real crux starts. from the last big jug in the quartzite section, you make a big reach with the right hand past a little crackcrimp up to this pretty good pinch, and from there you locked off with the right hand to reach another left hand crimp before stabbing into the underclimb. That right hand (which was also a good foothold) is no longer a good crimp with a thumb catch, and is now a kind of crappy gaston sloper that you grab to make the lockoff.
I have the missing piece in my room. thought i'd hold on to it for safekeeping in case someone wanted it. i don't think it would work to glue it, plus i don't know what the whole ethics deal with that is. it's still plenty climbable, just kind of a weird move now.
basically the hold he reaches at :38/:39 in the first video
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Oct 20, 2010 rating: 5.12a7a+25VIII+25E5 6a
Well, I think I may have reinforced that hold a little when originally I put the route up, but obviously weather and being climbed on for years caught up with it. If it really messed up the route, say for instance making a clip ridiculous or something, and it could be repaired in such a way where it wouldn't be noticeable, I would be for putting it back on, in which case I would like to do it myself, but it sounds like the route goes fine without the full hold. You just clipped off the jug, so that is not an issue. May as well leave it be. We got years out of it. Now we have a little more challenge. Maybe hold on to the piece for a while longer , if you don't mind, in case people want it put back.
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Oct 20, 2010 rating: 5.12a7a+25VIII+25E5 6a
my vote is to leave it as is.... rocks break.... its part of the game... i personally hope that it will get rid of that 11d/12a grade and get us settled on a solid number :)
Alright then it's settled: Peanut Man II, 5.15a. If you guys wouldn't mind informing all the appropriate media outlets, it would really save me a hassle.
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Nov 1, 2010 rating: 5.12a7a+25VIII+25E5 6a
I did "Peanut Man 2" today and i agree with 5.12a... i like the new move more than the old one, balancy and more memorable... For me that move wasnt a big step harder but the old hold was important as a foot and it made it harder to get up in to the under cling... over all, no loss, we now have a really fun 12a on main cliff :)