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Brownstone Wall
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Peanut Brittle 
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Peanut Brittle 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 800', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: J&J Urioste Feb 1978
Season: dry
Page Views: 856
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Nov 27, 2009
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Crux finale on pitch 4 of Peanut Brittle. Another...

Description 

A neat line with good position and exciting cruxes. This route basically follows crack systems on the rib of rock to the left of Black Dagger.

P1: Scramble up the right side of a low angled featured face above the big pine tree at the base of the route, just left of a wide-ish crack. Pass the large bush (bush on left) and aim for a flat spot behind a large block. Couple of large stoppers work well for the belay. 100' fourth to easy fifth class.

P2: Climb up right from the belay stance to the top of the block and step straight up steep face for maybe 8 feet, then hard right around corner to gain a crack system. Follow crack until it ends. Up and traverse slightly right towards another crack. After around 135 feet, start looking for a decent belay spot which may be semi hanging but will have adequate gear. ~5.5/5.6 PG to possibly R rated.

P3: Climb up short face and traverse slightly right to crack. Finish on steep jugs through easy overhang to nice, rose colored small belay ledge. Medium to hand sized crack here for belay anchor. 75 feet, 5.5.

P4: Pretty much the crux pitch of the route. Take care climbing up the short, steep chimney off the P3 belay stance, then follow the short lower angle crack up which disappears into a lower angle face (with scarce protection, maybe slings on horns and small cams in shallow pods. Look around and don't pass up pro options!). Climb up, aiming for the twin cracks above, angling to the right (which looks to be the easiest option). Finally, some good gear options are available (medium to hand sized cams and large nut). Pull steep, short overhang and gain the nice wide ledge, with wide crack on the left side for belay (#3 and 4 Camalot). 150 feet, 5.6+/5.7 R.

P5: Follow wide crack up to a neat varnished face and corner crack. Stay in corner crack up slick lower angle wall (easier than it looks) to belay atop the small pillar (also the end of the chimney tunnel on Black Dagger). 80 feet, 5.5.

P6 and 7: follow last pitches of Black Dagger.

We climbed up the climbers left prow out of the stance (R rated, no pro for 20 feet) to a nice crack system for 100+ feet leading to a ledge with a tree on the left side. Then finish up either through roof with wide looking crack on the left side, or, right to steep face to low angle face (medium to big cams in horizontals). 140 feet-ish and 5.5/5.6.

Scramble another couple hundred feet to the summit ridge up lower angle 4th and 3rd class terrain.

Note: there are fragile features and some loose rock on this route. Climb "light" and take care yarding on holds.


Location 

Located on the far left side of the Brownstone Wall. Left of Black Dagger. Locate THE large pine tree at the base of the route.

Descend down the Gunsite.


Protection 

Standard Rack from O TCU to #4 Camalot (or equivalent) plus full set of stoppers. Some doubles in the 2 TCU through #1 camalot range may come in handy.

No fixed gear on route. No fixed anchors.



Photos of Peanut Brittle Slideshow Add Photo
Approximate location of Peanut Brittle.
BETA PHOTO: Approximate location of Peanut Brittle.
Finishing up pitch 3 of Peanut Brittle.
Finishing up pitch 3 of Peanut Brittle.
Pitch 2 of Peanut Brittle, climber just below where the stopper eatin' crack ends.
Pitch 2 of Peanut Brittle, climber just below wher...
Comments on Peanut Brittle Add Comment
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By Fast_Eddie.
Feb 10, 2010

This climb is as it's named--brittle

By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Nov 6, 2011

Ya just gave away the joke!

It is crunchy, but fun and interesting.