Thought-provoking and sustained 5.9+ that earns its plus rating around two thirds of the way up at a balance/slab crux. Avoid the urge to veer towards the easier chossy left side around the third bolt. Very well bolted with chain anchors.
Bolted face just left of the obvious crack (Cracker Jack).
bolts, chain anchors
Amy at the first crux section.
Me leading peanut brittle. One of my favorite 5.9...
Just past the balance/slab crux. Good view of the ...
Mike on at the anchors
Todd K on Peanut Brittle.
From: Mesa AZ
Oct 29, 2009
Totally! Great Climb. I would agree. Dont cheat yourself... There is a good dedicated move to the right that you'll do, and then thank yourself that you did!
Great finish as well!
From: tucson, az
Nov 1, 2009
Really great route - thoroughly enjoyed it and was actually a bit giddy afterwards. Fun somewhat blind moves to good stances.
Dec 31, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Superb, must-do route. Question: When does 5.9+ become 5.10a? I think this qualifies as the later.
From: Wayne, PA
Dec 7, 2012
Thought this was an amazing route. Felt 10ish to me. For this shorty, it had lots of blind moves. Great little roofy type finish. Loved it.
From: Portland, OR
Mar 6, 2014
This was a really fun route with three distinct cruxes. The holds are some what "hidden" at these cruxes - if you wait and feel around you will find them, however!