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Overhanging lieback on the 5.9 variation of Peache...
Take the Petroglyph Wall Trail to the interpretive sign at the base of the crag. About 30 feet left of this area, Peaches goes up the prominent right leaning dihedral that is capped by a roof. Climb straight up this dihedral and then escape right around the overhang. The closest escape on the right goes at 5.7, go further right for the 5.5 route. You can take on the 5.9 variation by going left at the roof and doing a sweet, pumpy lieback up the overhanging crack. This climb is well protected and has good rock quality. Walk off right.
BETA PHOTO: Peaches
The 5.7 variation of Peaches. Note the 5.9 overhan...
Evan Allen on Peaches
|By Shawn Overstreet|
From: Jackson, Wy
Apr 18, 2008
The "walk off" is hardly that. It involves quite a bit of worming your way through not so nice prickley bushes and a solid 5th class move with 100+ feet of exposure. If you or your partner aren't comfy with these, I'd highly suggest bringing up a second rope (120' I believe) as there is a rap station on a tree at the top. It's also easy to use said tree as your anchor to belay the second up. No anchor building skills needed.
|By marc rosenthal|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Aug 19, 2008
I led this route on Sunday morning and it was nicely shaded. Had a bit of trouble at the top, needed some extra slings and just ran short. I traversed right of the roof after the crux and continued up the 5.5 route to the top. We knew the descent was a traverse right but it had been a long time since we had been up there and we were a bit uncomfortable with the exposure.
We did not have two ropes and a 60 meter will not reach the ground from the rap ring/anchor. I climbed above the route through a 5.2 section and then we began crossing the terrace,heading east. FYI, if this happens to you, simply head south across various ledges and boulders and the canyon will rise up to meet you. There is a nice 3rd class path that leads down from the terrace. Once you are on the deck, it is about a 5 minute walk back to the base.
|By Ryan Kelly|
Nov 10, 2008
There currently (Nov 08) is not an anchor there. The downclimb was a bit of work but we certainly didn't have to do any 'solid 5th class' moves to get down.
|By Ron Graham|
Mar 1, 2009
There is one section in the walk-off that appears to be quite exposed if you want to walk your way around it, but if you get down and crawl under the bulge that makes it appear so exposed, it's quite safe and easy to get passed without a belay. As of February '09, there is a rap station at the top of Peaches that requires two 60M ropes to rappel. There is also a set of hangers with chains above the anchor to Sumo Greatness that you can rap directly from or use for belaying yourself down to the Sumo Greatness anchor to rap off of that. Both the Sumo Greatness anchor and the anchor above it can be rapped with a single 60M rope.
|By David Bayendor|
From: Denver, CO
Mar 25, 2009
Walkoff is a little exposed, but careful route finding renders it manageable.
Anchor on tree is quite solid. Bring some extra shoulder length slings to extend the pro you place as you approach the roof.
By staying left and working the crack through the roof, it's a solid 5.9.
Staying under the roof keeps it a good 5.7.
Going right onto the face makes this a 5.5.
|By Tyson Anderson|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 14, 2009
As of today the rap slings are gone.
From: Santa Ana
Mar 22, 2010
The rap slings are back and you can (just barely) rap the route with a single 70m rope. Loved the .7 variation.
Apr 9, 2010
Slings on tree as of 4/2010. Nice route - loved the crack moves. Perhaps the route listing here should match what's in the Handren book, 5.7, with the 5.5 as a variation?
Apr 23, 2010
Slings gone Friday 4/23
From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Apr 26, 2010
Sling on the tree as of 4/25/10
Good climb, but for a beginning lead a little sketchy.
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Jul 3, 2010
The sling is still on the tree today. Although the belay at the top was in the sun, the corner was fully shaded even at noon, making this a bearable climb on a hot summer day. The 5.7 variation is fun and a bit challenging in the squeeze on the right side of the roof.
|By Andy Hansen|
From: Longmont, Colorado
Mar 12, 2012
Slings still there as of 3/12/2011. The 5.7 is the way to go. Very good- I love Joe Herbst.
Mar 31, 2012
Do the 5.7 variation, its a gem. But do be ware that the crux can be a bit spicy on an onsite lead. A fall at the wrong time would swing you into the corner pretty hard. So just don't fall when liebacking and squeezing into the chimney!
Slings, etc are still on the tree, but we built our own anchor off the tree for good measure.
The walkoff is also straightforward, but just be prepared for a funky and exposed 3rd class move about half way across the cliff band.
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 21, 2012
A reasonably fun route to lead. It continually goes up and right, so the rope drag gets annoying, you could use half ropes for practice with that technique - then do the double rope rap from the tree.
Even though this is apparently 5.6-5.7, I somehow got myself in the position of doing a moderate move underneath some marginal rocks wedged in the corner about half way up. Apparently I should have gone right onto the face - but I think I skipped that because the protection out there seemed to be lacking.
Dec 13, 2012
5.7 variation. Slings on tree, got back to the ground with a 70m. Not as good as all the hype suggests. Bonus points if you sing ANY of Peaches' songs while leading this route.