Peaches and Cream  5.11

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet FA:  Jimmy Dunn Submitted By:  Andy Johnson on Jan 1, 2002 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Peaches and Cream is located on Twin Owls about 200 feet right of Crack of Fear when viewed from the base. It is the very obvious flake with an offwidth on its left side.

Begin to the left of the offwidth up an easy crack to a ledge. Walk to the base of the offwidth, strap on your holy shit boots and jump in. The funny thing about this climb is that it starts off with about 5.9 offwidth. You'll probably be thinking that you are doing pretty well. You might even think that you're going to send. Then, the crack opens up just a little and kicks back a lot. Suddenly, you're hopes of sending will flee in the form of grunts from your mouth. Start throwing the stacks and move. This line flares a bit so it is a really tight squeeze. If you can keep it together, you will be rewarded with some easy 5.8-5.9 liebacking after about 15 feet of punishing offwidth.

When I did this the anchor was webbing at the top of the flake. I have never seen anyone else on this climb, so it may be smart to bring some good webbing with you. Enjoy.

Protection 

Bring gear from #0.75 to #5 Camalots with emphasis on wide stuff.