Peacenik 5.12a
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| Type: | Sport, 2 pitches, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11d [details] |
| FA: | M. Rangel et al |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | manuel rangel on Jun 19, 2008 |
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Megan follows p2 and she is in perfect form for th...
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Description Getting established on the steep start is difficult, then the final clip is a tad far, but clipping off a jug. That is pitch one. The next pitch is the crux, move off a good right hand to a tips sidepull and a high left foot made this an awkward rock over. Then a difficult finish to boot.
Location From the ledge/trail next to Great Race, 4th class to the large Oak/ledge above and look for bolts right of Warhippies.
Protection 10 bolts to climb to top (if you climb the third pitch of Warhippies)
Laurel is two moves from the crux on the first pit...
| Megan tip toes to the bulge on first pitch of Peac...
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By Laurel From: Phoenix Jun 21, 2008
| Thanks mannny for freaky picture, fun consistant moves on P1, P2 has great moves and than they become desperate, being yogalicious will help |
By manuel rangel Jun 22, 2008
| I get that look all the time from you! |
By arjunmh From: Phoenix, AZ May 8, 2011
| Yogalicious would definitely have helped on 2nd pitch! First pitch is great, but it's not clear whether to climb straight over the bolts with crimpy nonexistent holds or move right with smooth, fluid, much more fun climbing that it also easier. It is possible to rap these climbs (Gone Grey, War Hippies, Peacenik) with a 60 m rope. 60 m reaches the main ledge from anchors on top of first pitch of War Hippies and Peacenik. It also reaches the start of Peacenik from the top of the second pitch, after which it's a moderate downclimb to the main ledge, or a second rap. This second pitch anchor is what you need to stop at when rapping from the top. |
By RyanJames Apr 30, 2012 rating: 5.11d
| Peacenik is a GREAT climb, especially when linking with the top pitch of warhippies. The crux is also height dependent that is much, much harder the shorter you are. I'd say a solid 5.12 if you're under 6 feet tall and 11+ if you're over 6'. Overall though, this climb is badass. |
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