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 ADVANCED
Big Thompson Canyon Ice
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Peace Break 

WI4-5 M4+ R

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus: WI4-5 M4+ [details]
FA: Steve McCorkel and Mike Kleker
New Route: Yes
Season: Exceptionally Cold and Wet
Page Views: 2,338
Submitted By: Steve McCorkel on Jan 19, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: From the road.

Description 

An ice, moss, snow ramp, leads to a smear that leads to a mixed dihedral.

Location 

Approach as for the route The Coal Room. Very fickle. Seen after the tub, before the boulder overhanging a paved, parking pullout on the left. Approach with a cool but short drip on the vertical road cut down canyon from the parking. Traverse left above the road cut, and then up and left on snow to the base of the left leaning ramp below the smear.

Protection 

Small and very small cams, wires, slider nuts; and at least a #0.5 and #1 Camalot; one or two stubbies. Two-bolt anchor up and right.


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By allen simons
Jan 19, 2007

Hats off to McCorkle and Kleker. I have eyed this rarely formed gem since 1991. It has only come in 2-3 times since and very thin, but this year is a banner year. It was on my list for next week to get at if it lasted. Correct me if I'm wrong, basically this is the rock route Coal Room with ice smeared over it, correct??? Aaron, if you don't want to recommend the Big T ice to others, that's fine with me. These rare formed gems can be saved for the locals if you disuade others to come try them.
allen
By Mike Kleker
Jan 20, 2007

Two brief comments: 1) Steve did an excellent job leading this. It is sporty with pro not as good as most would like. Be careful! 2) Though neither long nor strenuous, the climbing at the crux is more technical than either Secret Probation or Little Thang in Vail. M5 seems a bit light for the grade. (The pro at the crux is good.) Enjoy!
By kyle kingrey
From: Loveland
Jan 22, 2007

Peace Break looks awesome-Way to go fellows, Climbing in BTC is amazing and when things like this come in it is a rare treat. Hats off to the both of you.
Allen.....we missed our window for the FA!! There's still more to be had though.

Aaron-continue to not recommend the BTC. For years, folks have been overlooking and bashing the BTC. This is OK. To a few of us this area is a beautiful place to climb and explore.
By kyle kingrey
From: Loveland
Jan 24, 2007

Still in as of 1-24-07.