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Susan plugging away
This is a fairly nice crack route, following the left of two prominent cracks on the right side of the face.
Standard rack plus one fixed pin
BETA PHOTO: Peabody's Peril climbs the left crack.
BETA PHOTO: Pebody's Peril on the left, #A
An old photo of me leading the climb in question.
|Comments on Peabody's Peril
|By Russ Walling|
Mar 3, 2007
Pretty good route. Nice and sunny and somewhat wind protected. Slightly funky in spots, and the rock could be better... but hey, what do you want in a two star 5.9 with no crowds? Descend to climbers left down a big ramp back to the base. Anchors can be slung blocks, a stance, or some med/large cams.
|By susan peplow|
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 3, 2007
No fixed pin and just as well, as it's not needed anyways. Of the two 9's on this wall, this is definitely the better choice. The crack protects easily with standard gear.
As you approach the top you'll come to some large boulders and chalk stones of which you could belay there. I kept moving upward and right to the very top where I placed some medium cams for the anchor. Walk off to the north down an obvious ramp. If you were so inclined you could TR this route with a 55 meter (do they still make those) rope.