|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Roger Linfield on Jun 26, 2006|
|Comments on Peabody's Peril||Add Comment|
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By Russ Walling
Mar 3, 2007
|Pretty good route. Nice and sunny and somewhat wind protected. Slightly funky in spots, and the rock could be better... but hey, what do you want in a two star 5.9 with no crowds? Descend to climbers left down a big ramp back to the base. Anchors can be slung blocks, a stance, or some med/large cams.|
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 3, 2007
No fixed pin and just as well, as it's not needed anyways. Of the two 9's on this wall, this is definitely the better choice. The crack protects easily with standard gear.
As you approach the top you'll come to some large boulders and chalk stones of which you could belay there. I kept moving upward and right to the very top where I placed some medium cams for the anchor. Walk off to the north down an obvious ramp. If you were so inclined you could TR this route with a 55 meter (do they still make those) rope.