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PB & J 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
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Submitted By: BDalhaus on Jun 1, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: The short finger crack.

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Description 

This short & spicy crack that climbs out a bulge and then up an arete is a decent intro to the grade, although it doesn't appear to get climbed too often. A good scrubbing might make it more appealing. Layback the crack to start and pull up right to a good crimp with your feet underneath the small overhang. Work your feet up and follow the crack while you consider pulling an unprotected crux to a good stance. Plug your "thank god" gear, then scramble up onto the ledge. Finish up Double Jam on the left.


Where Is It? 

5' right of Double Jam, this route climbs the crack on the bulging arete.


Protection 

Cams up to .75 or passive gear of comparable size. Toprope off of trees at the top.



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By Lon Hohberger
From: Hudson, NH
Feb 5, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

I found this one to be one of the few non-sand-baggy routes at Pawtuckaway, possibly because it's rarely climbed and thus has plenty of grip.