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Pazookieland 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type: Trad, 2 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Jason Martin and Marie Dybala, 2005
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,542
Submitted By: Jason D. Martin on Jan 1, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: This shows the entire route from the bottom follow...

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Description 

This route was named for the excellent dessert found at BJ's brewpub.

Pazookieland can be found just left of Birdland. Indeed, Pazookieland is an excellent alternative to the first two pitches of Birdland. From the top of the second pitch it is easy to access the Bighorn handcrack, Rawalpindi and the upper pitches of Birdland.

Pitch One:Start on a nice ledge just up and left of Birdland. This route follows the obvious cleft to the left of the previously mentioned route. Ascend the crack up to what looks like an overhanging offwidth. Bypass this on the left. It is not as hard as it looks and is easily protectable. Build a belay station above this at two small bushes. (5.7)

Pitch Two:Continue up and left, bypassing a second small roof. This is the crux of the pitch. After this section the climbing eases to low fifth class. Ascend to a large ledge where it is possible to look down at the belay station at the top of the second pitch of Birdland. You will be directly under the Bighorn handcrack. Build an anchor here. (5.7)

From this position, Bighorn can easily be climbed. To access Birdland, traverse into the middle of the the third pitch and continue up the route.


Protection 

Standard Red Rock Rack to 3 inches.



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By Jason D. Martin
Oct 12, 2006

These two pitches are the same pitches described for the start of Rawalpindi.

Jason