Payment in Pump
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The rock is standard Shelf Road fare, pretty solid and topping out on the sharp black water drop features.
The climbing is maybe 5.11 up to the second horizontal break, where a good rest can be had. Then pull off a couple difficult moves followed by some thin climbing that's not as hard to the anchors. It is however possible to fall off after the crux if you're not thinking with your feet.
For folks with a large wingspan (maybe 6'4"), there is a tricky to get pinch out right that was vital for me. For shorter folks, you've got some bad, shallow pockets you'll have to pinch? just left of the bolt line.
This is a good place to be when Cactus is crowded with people and dogs. There's also a few routes on the front of the buttress to warm up on.
A long quickdraw is nice at the crux if you are working the route. This will make the clip a bit easier.
Payment climbs the left wall of the dihedral.
|Comments on Payment in Pump
|By Mike Anderson|
From: Dayton, OH
Mar 16, 2005
This really is a great route. The rock is not at all "standard", I would say it is much better than most anything else at the Cactus Cliff. The moves are also much more interesting than the standard "dinking" that you find at Shelf. The only drawback is that it is too short.
As for the moves, I'm not sure if I did it right, but I had to use holds pretty far left of the bolt line. It seemed like the only viable option for my 5'7" frame.
Too bad there isn't more rock like this at Shelf.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Nov 20, 2005
Does anyone know if/what broke on this climb. I've done enough 13s to know that this is either the biggest sandbag I've been on or the the more likely option that something serious broke.
|By Mike Anderson|
From: Dayton, OH
Dec 13, 2005
Hmmm...I also thought this route seemed brutally hard at first, but after working it, it seemed more in line with the grade. Usually when something breaks, there is an obvious scar...I suggest you try again, and see if it feels more reasonable. I had to do a tweaky two finger move (undercling I think) then dyno to pretty bad slopers, but it was OK once I had it dialed.
|By Darryl Roth|
May 22, 2008
The hold at the crux hasn't broken off. Most people don't see it because the rational mind doesn't recognize the "postage stamp" as a hold. When working for the FA,I hung there for some time trying to find a workable hold, and with my negative ape index, it took creativity, or maybe foolishness to think it would go for me. Eventually, with the patience of Dave Dangle allowing me to fiddle for seeming hours, I tried a hold the size of a postage stamp that I had to squeeze between my right thumbnail and middle fingernail. From there, with perfect foot positioning, it's a long reach with the left to a good hold.
Whenever I've gone back, I need to re-suss the move with a hang, because the hold is never chalked and I cannot find it immediately.It blends in and will elude you,but the route is so good, it's worth the effort. Hope this helps.
|By Jonathan Siegrist|
From: his truck
Feb 22, 2009
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c
Payment in Pump is a two move climb for sure, no other move on the climb is harder than prob 5.11. I am short (5'5) but I was able to use the *reachy* beta- use a small 'postage stamp' hold as an intermediate for your right hand, and then switch your left hand to an awkward pinch/thumb gaston and reach your ass off to a very delicate sloper. The ledge below this climb is super nice to hang out on and the neighboring 'Cash in the Vault' is a nice climb too.
|By Falon Morris|
Dec 31, 2011
All about the "Spock" hold! just above and to the right of the obvious, horizontal crack. Crucial for me.
|By Curt MacNeill|
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 21, 2012
Great route for sure. I just sent Cash in the Vault right next door on my first try of the day, so I figured I would give this climb a go. It's really fun, I would say much better than Cash in the Vault. Seemed like big moves to positive holds(sometimes sharp) to a stopper section in the middle. It's pretty straightforward climbing, a bit easier to read than its neighbor. Executing the few moves at the crux is a different story, though. The day I tried it was way too hot (yes it's Januaray!!) and some of the slopey holds at the crux felt near impossible to hold onto. Super fun route. Have to go back and try it in cooler weather....