Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Awesome Roof
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Walk with Kirky S 
Dinner with Dracula S 
Freeloader S 
Highway to Heaven S 
Pay 3 (subroute of Pay at the Pump) S 
Pay 4 (subroute of Pay at the Pump) S 
Pay 5 (subroute of Pay at the Pump) S 
Pay 6 (subroute of Pay at the Pump) S 
Pay 7 (subroute of Pay at the Pump) S 
Pay 8 (subroute of Pay at the Pump) S 
Pay at the Pump S 
Turtle Man S 
Vanilla Sky S 

Pay at the Pump 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Clayton Reagan, Matt Twyman
Page Views: 1,285
Submitted By: Clint Walker ATX on Apr 11, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Working Pay at the Pump.

Description 

12 bolts (9 are permadraws), NO ANCHORS.

Start on furthest wall you face approaching the area. Climb to large, body size, crack. Follow long crack traversing roof.

Some say that each bolt is worthy of a different grade as you progress. Ratings range from 11b to 12b as you get further into the route.

Location 

Climb starts at base of small wall the the right of a large boulder and left of the slopey dihedral.

Protection 

Permanent draws along roof.


Photos of Pay at the Pump Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Aicacia Young on Pay at the Pump
Aicacia Young on Pay at the Pump

Comments on Pay at the Pump Add Comment
Show which comments
By jjjjjjjjjj
Dec 4, 2015

This thing is crazy. Even though it's essentially the same move again, nowhere else in Texas can you find a route that pumps you out so consistently. There are no rests, just pumps. The updated guidebook grades this route 5.12d, which makes sense since the sub-routes go from 11c to 12b.
By Lizzzz
Feb 8, 2016
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Curious where they got the 13b grade -- this is a cool route, no doubt, but the guidebook says 12d. Last move (from the end jug on the 12b to the crimp and clipping) feels about v5...
By Clint Walker ATX
From: Austin, TX
Feb 10, 2016

Lizzzz,

I think the 13b rating is topping out the route after clipping the last perma. A few people I've spoken to say that just clipping the blue-neck perma is around 12d due to pump. Pulling the face after that is disheartening to say the least after the pump of the first 40 feet.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!