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The North Forty
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Unsorted Routes:

Paul's Redemption 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Ben McDaniel 06/09
Page Views: 323
Submitted By: cjstolte on Jan 3, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Description 

Start by clipping the first bolt on Frankenberry but continue straight up. At the second bolt pull over the roof using Wanted Man's holds(or avoid them for a 5.8+ variation) and continue with easy but runout terrain.

Location 

to the left of wanted man and right of Lion Tamer starting on Frankenberry

Protection 

5 bolts


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By Mark Orsag
From: Omaha, NE
Aug 4, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Have done the variation on this too-- straight over the roof. Quite fun. Maybe 5.8 I thought; though the new guide rates it a harder at 9-. 1st bolt is above the roof (or was when I climbed it). I think the new guide also no longer calls this route PG13. So maybe something has been added there... Really fun route whether you detour onto Wanted Man to keep the grade at 7 or not.

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