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 ADVANCED
Upper Great Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Few Moments of Pleasure T 
Big Steep, The T 
Brass Junkie T,S 
Golden Monkey, The T,S 
Hotness, The S 
Paul's Boutique T,S 
Wiffle Ball Bat S 
Unsorted Routes:

Paul's Boutique 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 290'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Paul Pomeroy & Chris Taylor
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 559
Submitted By: Chris. T. on Aug 29, 2011

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Sara happily belaying in the rain on the '5.10 led...

Description 

This route starts with the bolted line to the left of 'The Big Steep'.

Pitch 1: Wander up nice face climbing past 12 bolts to a bolted anchor. At the 5th bolt, traverse right beneath a bulge to gain the 6th bolt (long runners useful to reduce rope drag). Move right just after the last bolt to reach the bolted belay anchor. (5.10, 100 feet.)

The first 10 bolts of pitch 1 were placed by an unknown party, and the line was previously left unfinished for several years.

Pitch 2: Climb straight up from the belay, then trend slightly left to the first bolt. Continue up nice face climbing past the second bolt, and gain a thin ledge. Climb thin moves past the third and fourth bolts to gain easier terrain. Easy climbing leads to the large comfortable belay ledge(the '5.10 ledge'). (90 feet, 5.10+.)
As of 6/20/12, it is a bit runout getting to the first bolt. Additional first bolt will be added soon.

  • There are 2 giant detached flakes/blocks after the last bolt to the left of the route. They are completely avoidable.

Pitch 3: Start from the left side of the large belay ledge. Climb up the left side of the headwall past 6 bolts to easier terrain leading up and right to the bolted anchor shared with 'The Hotness' and 'Brass Junkie'. Gear can be placed after the last bolt. Directional protection can be placed after the last bolt for anyone toproping the pitch. (100 feet, 5.10+.)

  • 2 variations exist at the last bolt:
-climb straight up past the last bolt to good holds at the lip
or
-traverse right after clipping the last bolt and add 10 feet of steep climbing up the headwall before gaining the easier terrain to the anchor.

Descent: lower or rappel with a 60 meter rope back to the large belay ledge (the '5.10 ledge'). Then rappel back to the base using the bolted chain anchors for 'The Big Steep'.

Location 

'Paul's Boutique' starts about 10 to 15 feet left of the start of 'The Big Steep ', next to a large pine tree growing very close to the wall.

Protection 

Pitch 1: Twelve bolts. Bolted anchor.

Pitch 2: Four bolts. Gear to 1" inch, including wires. Gear anchor.

Pitch 3: 6 bolts. Gear to 1" inch. Bolted anchor.

60 meter rope mandatory. TIE A KNOT IN THE END OF YOUR ROPE!


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By Ken Duncan
Aug 18, 2014

Really needs another bolt at the start of p2. The pro is in rock that very well may break if fallen on leading to a 50 ft factor 2 fall.
By Chris. T.
From: Longmont, Co.
Aug 20, 2014

Hi Ken,
I agree %100 about the need for another bolt above the anchor at the start of pitch 2.
My partner at the time didn't want to put a bolt in that section, but the rock is not suitable for reliable, clean protection.

I no longer have access to a drill, otherwise I would definitely put another bolt in there.

If anyone feels motivated to do so themselves, please feel free. It would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!,
Enjoy the climbs.