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Pauline's Pentacle 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
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Submitted By: Greg Barnes on Mar 20, 2008
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Pauline's Pentacle

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Description 

Note - Handren guide says you can rap this with a single 70m, but this is wrong - the second pitch is 165'.


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Pitch one of PP.
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By meo
Aug 22, 2008

This route has its good points and bad points. First THE BAD- there is no direct line after initial crack runs out. Route finding is compounded by chossy rock. The top of the first pitch is on the left side of the big ledge you eventually end up in. The second pitch starts out on better rock but you wander around a bit looking for pro. THE GOOD- Up and left is where the money is. I beautiful right slanting crack line that is a joy to climb going at no more than 5.9 Near the top the rock gets chossy again and you must use caution so has not to bombard your climbing partners. This pitch is about 165' and you need 2 ropes to get down. The route for me is a one time wonder. Worth doing once if only for the adventure. Probably would not do it again. I used many nuts and cams to a 1" Place pro where you find it as its a bit difficult to sniff out. Rappel with 2 ropes from top. The first picth could be rapped with a 70m