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Mescalito
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Welcome to Red Rocks T 
When A Stranger Calls T 
Y2K T 

Pauligk Pillar 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 350'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Mr and Mrs Roland Pauligk, Randy Grandstaff
Page Views: 3,078
Submitted By: Francis Baker (fran) on Mar 3, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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BETA PHOTO: Routes on east face of Mescalito.

Description 

This climb fallows a right facing corner for two pitches. It starts just to the left of Y2K. Face climb,jam, and stem up the corner past a thin section(crux) to fixed gear and slings. Continue up the corner angling slightly left using mostly face climbing,stemming, and some chimneying.

Protection 

Fixed pro and slings in the crack at top of first pitch,but you can build an anchor and only use them to rappel. Slings around tree on top of second pitch. A standard rack and slings will do. Two ropes to rappel.


Photos of Pauligk Pillar Slideshow Add Photo
Mike following up P-1.
Mike following up P-1.
Pauligk Pillar
BETA PHOTO: Pauligk Pillar
Mike leading P-2  Note the awesome but scary looki...
Mike leading P-2 Note the awesome but scary looki...

Comments on Pauligk Pillar Add Comment
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By Francis Baker (fran)
From: Las Vegas,NV
Mar 10, 2005
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I should have given this a star when I put it in. I want to return and do the tight dihedral on the right as the second pitch. It looked good and I am not sure if it has been done. If anyone knows please fill me in. I think you might be able to get to the anchor on top of Y2K's P2. This was a good morning out. A good long 1st pitch if u r waiting for Y2K to open up.
By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From: Vegas
Jun 16, 2006
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A short but worthwhile climb with a stellar first pitch that has lots of variety. Made for an interesting 5.7 anyway. I got to do a little traversing under a small roof at the start, some liebacking, stemming, jamming,a little chimneying and chicken-winging too!

Watch out for rope eating cracks when pulling, and throwing ropes. I saw some rope remnants deep inside a crack, and ours almost got eaten too in the same spot.
By Aminda
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jan 6, 2009

We were thrown off by a tangle of slings at a very small ledge 100 feet off the ground. Keep climbing to the real belay, another 50 feet up.
By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Apr 6, 2009

Second pitch is actually only 115'. We rapped off the second with a 70m and barely reached the anchors. Then did a double rope rap from second anchor. You could get off with only a 70m if you're willing to trust the ratty nest of slings at 100' on the 1st pitch.
By Sherri Lewis
From: Sequim, WA
Apr 14, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I'd give three stars to the first pitch, 0 to the second. The first pitch was super fun, as it seemed to throw a little of everything at you: a bouldery start, stemming, jamming, OW, face...with good pro and nice rock.

The second pitch added nothing to the route, other than an awkward, extra rappel.
By Floridaputz
From: Oakland Park, Florida
Mar 22, 2011

I agree with Sheri, Great 1st Pitch, average 2nd pitch.
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Apr 19, 2012

Rapped down the face past the sling nest to the bolts on the 5.12 with 2 60m ropes.
By Ben Townsend
Apr 28, 2013

Fun climb. The anchor at the top of the first pitch is cleaned up and in good shape -- currently three fixed nuts and two threads (one with beefy cord), all equalized with a tied-off cordelette and two rings.
By immunizer
May 28, 2013

Nice climb with varied movement. Beware a very loose flake near top of 2nd pitch. More importantly, beware the rope-eating crack-daemon who lives here. He is hungry. He will not be satisfied with just my rope. He will eat yours, too. Now I have two ropes, but they are very short.
By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Mar 24, 2014

I'd second Tom's recommendation of rapping down the face to anchors of Welcome to Red Rocks. It's a much nicer pull. Also, the anchor at 100' is no longer.