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 ADVANCED
Glass Ocean and Environs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Atlantis T,TR 
Delta Y S,TR 
Get the Net T 
Glass Ocean S 
High Dive T 
Hydroplane T 
Left Tributary S 
Lord of the Long Arms T,TR 
Northwest Passage T,TR 
Open Water T 
Patty's Ridge T 
Right Tributary T 
Sail Away S 
Seam, The T 
Tsunami S 

Patty's Ridge 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 700'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Probably the Alpenbock Club
Page Views: 1,067
Submitted By: Orphaned on Oct 2, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Rough topo showing the route we took. Your mileage...

Description 

The crux for me was on the 2nd half of the ridge where there is a nice fist crack near the arete'. There is a touchy move in the middle of this stretch. This ridge offers great views, great climbing AND great exposure! The 1st half of the ridge is the crux as it holds steeper rock.

There is a bit of loose rock here and there, but easily spotted and avoided.


Location 

This ridge actually separates Stairs Gulch from the Glass Ocean area.

Hike up the Stairs Gulch Trail. When you are almost out of the Dead Snag/Glass Ocean area a dark quartzite ridge runs down to the stream separating the area's. This is Patty's Ridge.


Protection 

A super light set of cams and nutz. Bring a handsized cam. If you start in the wide corner at the bottom bring something big.

At the end of the ridge is a loose scree gulley that runs east/west, get into this by walking to the west side of the ridge (faint trail) then down the gulley into Stairs Gulch.



Photos of Patty's Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Patty's Ridge from near the creekbed coming down from Stairs Gulch
Patty's Ridge from near the creekbed coming down f...
First pitch of Pattys Ridge.
First pitch of Pattys Ridge.
Looking up the beautiful, exposed section of the ridge.  I belayed at the base of the shadowy dihedral above.
Looking up the beautiful, exposed section of the r...
Comments on Patty's Ridge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Alec
Jun 10, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

There's a really nice, 30ft splitter finger crack about 2/3rd of the way up the ridge.

By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Jun 16, 2012

We did it in three pitches and it added up to about 500' long total. The pitch lengths are very approximate.

Pitch 1: Start around the left side of the ridge, not too far above the stream, and head up one of the corner/crack systems. Belay at a flat stance on the ridge. 120'.

Pitch 2: Gingerly scramble through some dark quartzite until you're on the great, exposed arete/ridge. Climb the whole of the arete and belay partway up a dihedral on a stance/ledge made up of rickety blocks. 220'. (Note that you might not make it to the belay spot even with a 70m rope if you don't belay high enough at the top of pitch 1.)

Pitch 3: Climb the rest of the way up the nice dihedral until it ends at a flat spot, then move left. Climb a steep, short hand crack (route crux) and then another short arete section until it flattens out and the ridge pretty much ends. 150'.

Descent: Again, this is how we did it so take it for what it's worth. From the top-out spot, unrope and walk along a faint trail up the right side of what was the ridge until you can drop down into a gully. Follow this gully for a while; no bushwhacking is really required. If you get to a point where there's a steep cliff dropoff, head 50 feet back up the gully and look for a notch heading into another gully (the notch will be on you're right as you're looking back up the gully). From there, follow the scree slope down. When it heads, contour right against the cliff until you're back at the stream and the Stairs Gulch trail.

By spencerparkin
From: Salt Lake City
Jun 18, 2012

Tristan was kind enough to take me up this route and put up with my blabbering. His beta is right on. I would add just a few things.

It may be worth noting that the start of the exposed ridge is truly knife edge, as in: razor sharp! A rope loaded over this edge would surely cut like butter. And since its a travers, the rope wouldn't just load over the edge, but skid along it too.

Also, poison oak (or ivey or whatever) grows at the start of the route, so be aware of that.

The crux section Tristan mention is, in my opinion, harder than 5.5. Perhaps different route finding can keep the whole thing 5.5; I don't know.

Lastly, perhaps our estimation of the route came up shorter than the beta we were given, because we actually didn't finish the route. There was more ridge to go, but it looked more scrambly and 4th classy than rock climbing. Perhaps a better descent laid beyond that; I don't know. Anyhow, I believe we finished up all the 5th class stuff, and found a reasonable way to walk out.

By PeterSLenz
From: Salt Lake City
Oct 24, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

Look at Tristan's excellent Beta photo of the ridge. I added some comments about a reasonable descent route.