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Entering the crux protected by some micronuts.
|Seasonal Raptor Closure from Moondance to After the Prick MORE INFO >>>|
Williams describes it as a "bit contrived", and it is.
Climb the face between Pas de Deux
and City Lights
to a ledge and small overhang formed by right- and left-facing flakes. The right-facing flakes are City Lights. Patty Duke involves a few moves above the left-facing flake, eliminating the right-facing flake, to gain the City Lights "jug". You can stay slightly left of City Lights as you work your way up, but eventually have to traverse over and up (5.5 R) to the bolt anchors.
Williams suggests placing pro in the right-facing flakes of City Lights to protect the crux. Instead, I was able to get three micro-nuts in the left-facing flake (one was a directional) just beneath the crux. Judge for yourself.
May 18, 2013
The guidebook describes a second pitch, which starts just right of the chains and heads straight up into the overhang, eventually moving a little left and joining the finish of City Lights. This pitch is steep and pumpy. It has some nice moves but some crappy rock through the crux section. Felt a little bit harder than the 5.6+ suggested by Williams.