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Patroclos Reborn 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Aris Theodoropaulos, George Kopalides, Lionel Pouzadoux, 2008 2004
Page Views: 79
Submitted By: Top Rope Hero on Oct 25, 2011
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Description 

Tired of tufas? Try toning it down a bit with some Patrocloses.

Patrocloses were unrefined, wandering Jews. Simultaneously, this climb, this VERY climb wanders and is fairly rough, crumbly, very unrefined. Uncanny, huh. What ARE the chancesórandom coincidence? Or cosmic fate? YOU be the judge.

Move up a rad and thin looking orange wall, fishing left for pockets, edges, and some vague semblance of balance. Clipping is sketch. Give your buddy on "Paris Texas" next door a high five and work back right before you succumb to the temptation to clip his generous bolts. Work up 'n' right to assault the obvious, stupendous undercling, about as big as Billy Corgan's ego. Then up the steepening face and sequence through the bulge (crux) or flail and fail trying to figure out which damn hand goes which damn where. Finish up on easy terrain. Last bolt is about as necessary as face syphilis.

FAIR WARNING: This climb is still very crumbly. Belayers should wear lead helmets and update their life insurance policy.


Location 

On the very right side of the Orion Wall, just before a big cave. See the heroes sending in the Marci Marc cave? Your standing too close; propinquity robs them their glory. Keep shuffling uphill and to the left until you see lines more adapted to mortals like yourself.

"Patroclos Reborn" is simply spelled "Patroklos." But don't let that confuse you. The climb is confusing enough.


Protection 

A dozen-ish draws and a decent map.





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