Climb to the top of the chimney described below and belay. Step out Rt. onto the slab, traversing diagonally up and right to a bolt. Continue traversing right another 20-25 feet to a second bolt, then climb directly up and then to a belay ledge slightly left. From the belay ledge climb up about 20 feet to a bolt, and then down and right towards a small ledge., then up and right to another bolt. Another few (5.9) moves culminate on a ledge(crux). The final lead climbs almost directly upwards to "Patio Pinnacle."
Patio Pinnacle is a tiny exfoliation slab between Monday Morning Slab and Goodrich Pinnacle, and is located approximately 600 feet above the talus. The climb starts about 120 feet to the right of The Gob, and climbs lower 5th class rock for about 200 feet arriving at a prominent chimney visible from the Valley floor. Bring a second rope for the rappels. The condition of the bolts is currently questionable. This would be a good project for ASCA.
Mostly bolts, but a light rack of wired stoppers and perhaps a few smaller cams. Also need about 6 quickdraws.
By Rodger Raubach
Apr 16, 2011
Once at the base of the chimney, finding the best way to the top is tricky. A very small climber can burrow through under a chockstone, but bigger climbers are forced on the face to the left for a few moves. This is a somewhat runout route and is very "old school Apron climbing." Better bring a bolt kit in case the rappel anchors need replacement.