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Dinosaur Rock
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Big Bob Cranks 
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Milk Bone 
Patience Face 
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Pretty in Pinkler 
Rug Munchers 
Shaft, The 
South Ramps 
Tracks are for Kids 
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West Face [Dinosaur Rock] 
Unsorted Routes:

Patience Face 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: First lead: Derek Peavey, Matt Samet, Paul Glover. First TR: Samet, Glover. Variation in the groove TR'ed earlier by Rui Ferreira, et al.
New Route: Yes
Season: spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 3,993
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Jul 17, 2008
Good Page? 3 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Kevin showing his Patience.
Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a 35-meter lead on the north face of Dinosaur Rock, right off the Mallory Cave trail. It climbs nice tan and maroon stone down low to a long black streak/rib that goes to the top of the wall. You must ABSOLUTELY USE A 70-METER ROPE FOR THIS CLIMB!!!

Originally done as a toprope, this is now a 14-bolt lead. Climb the first five bolts of The Shaft to a resting pod, then step right to the other, wider black streak/tufa thing. Follow this past nine more bolts all the way to the top of the wall on nice dark rock, with a handful of intricate cruxes separated by 5.10/5.11 climbing and some other rests. Definitely a voyage...Double-bolt anchors are a bit left at the lip so the rope will run better; unclip the last draw while lowering to reduce wear on your cord.

There are a few no-hands rests ("pods") here and there, but plenty of cruxes in between, including one at the top. We named all the pods, too -- seemed funny at the time.

Pre Pod, Pinkler Pod, Love Pod, Post Pod....

Many thanks to the Flatirons Climbing Council, OSMP, and the Access Fund for making it possible to install new climbs and update old ones in the Flatirons.


Location 

This is slightly east (left) of center on the north face of Dinosaur Rock.


Protection 

14 bolt to double-bolt anchors.



Photos of Patience Face Slideshow Add Photo
Doug Haller on the start of Patience Face.
BETA PHOTO: Doug Haller on the start of Patience Face.
A direct variation to Patience Face exits straight up the water groove as opposed to climbing out right.  As climbed this variation is between the Shaft to the left and the exit of Patience Face. This is around 12+.  Here I am approaching the last pod (Post Pod?) before the sustained and mostly overhanging climbing above.
BETA PHOTO: A direct variation to Patience Face exits straight...
Midway on Patience Face.
Midway on Patience Face.
Comments on Patience Face Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Jul 18, 2008

Nice work, Matt. I always looked at this thing and knew it should get done but was always scared off by the lack of gear. Glad to see it's a quality line, even on TR.

By Rich Farnham
Jul 6, 2009

Are you guys going to apply to bolt this? I was looking at it today and it looks fantastic! I'd be happy to help, if that would make the difference.

By Pinklebear
May 28, 2011

An application to bolt Patience Face on the North Face of Dinosaur Rock as a lead climb can be found here:

flatironsclimbingcouncil.wordpress.com/category/route-applic>>>

It has been submitted for the Flatirons Climbing Council FHRC cycle ending June 15. Any other new-route applications must be in by that date to be considered for this cycle. More info here: flatironsclimbingcouncil.wordpress.com/fixed-hardware-pilot->>>

Time and date of the FHRC vote and public meeting to be announced.

By Pinklebear
Jun 10, 2011

The Fixed Hardware Review Committee of the Flatirons Climbing Council will hold its public meeting Wednesday, July 6, at 7 p.m. at The Spot gym, Boulder, Colorado, to discuss and vote on applications for the June 2011 cycle. Anyone interested is invited to come participate and cast votes for the only proposal submitted so far (for this climb, Patience Face), which can be found here: flatironsclimbingcouncil.wordpress.com/category/route-applic>>>.
You can also leave comments on the proposed climb at the above link.

By Pinklebear
Mar 27, 2012

This route is now a lead climb: 14 bolts (first five shared with The Shaft, before heading right to the wide black streak) to a double-bolt anchor at the lip.

MANDATORY 70-METER ROPE. And did I mention that a 70-METER ROPE IS MANDATORY? Also, it's helpful to put a long sling on the fifth bolt for rope drag. Longer-longish draws might help here and there in other places too. Also helpful to unclip the last bolt when lowering, as it's a few feet right of the anchor and can cause your rope to rub.

Many thanks to the Flatirons Climbing Council, OSMP, and the Access Fund for making it possible to install new climbs and update old ones in the Flatirons.

Enjoy!

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jun 22, 2012

Patience Face is an accurate name. Be patient when resting and deciphering beta and success will be yours.

I hate to say it, but we did it with a 60m. We got down to the top of the large rock to the right of the start with about 1 foot to spare.... Be careful out there and use a 70m.

By Rui Ferreira
From: St Ismier (Grenoble), France
Sep 1, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Glad to finally see this bolted! It has been a long time coming since I first threw a top rope on this back in November of 2007. Patience pays off at the end.

By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 9, 2014

Really fun route and a great warmup for the 13s in the area.

By Rob Bailey
Apr 7, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Honestly, I think this one is better than The Shaft. Super fun!! Thank you, Matt.