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Totem-Proto Area
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Chicken Shit Salad S 
Direct North Face T 
Drop 'em South S 
Fern Gully Arete S 
Fruits of Optomisim, The S 
GTKO T 
Inertia T 
Milk of Manatee T 
Original Optomist T 
Overcoming Inertia T 
Pathological Optimist T,S 
Pipe Bomb T 
Pipe Cleaner T 
Protean Catch T 
Proto Pipe S 
Proto Type T 
Shakin' & Eggs T 
Totem Pole Direct S 
Totem Pole, The S 
Up in Smoke T 
Unsorted Routes:

Pathological Optimist 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Aaron Collins, Austin Sobotka, Scott Duemler, Tim Roley, Nate Young, Colten Kollenborn
New Route: Yes
Season: fall through spring
Page Views: 2,635
Submitted By: ldsclimber on Dec 30, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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I love this route. An endurance fest with a couple...

Description 

Afters years of hearing and seeing pictures of the Totem Pole I finally was able to get out there. I descovered for myself that it was truely an Az must do. It was done in the best and only style possible, ground up. It meanders up the pole taking the path of least resistance with the best drilling stances. I was seriouly impressed by the gumption the FA had. After walking around and looking at the tower, I couldn't help imagining other routes that would reach the summit. A couple months later withe the help of the existing route there is now another route to the summit.This route is found on the East side of the Totem Pole. It starts on a steep face and contiues up stustained climbing passing several bolts to the top. Though there are quite a few bolts, it is not a sport route. Gear is needed in two
sections of the route. It could potentially lead to ground fall should one fall tring to clip the third bolt with no gear. So play it safe and take gear. As one climber said "its a route to be proud of." Enjoy Az!

Protection 

Rack of draws, singles from micro nuts, finger size, and tight hands


Photos of Pathological Optimist Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Craig Tenbusschen ready for the prom on the top of...
Craig Tenbusschen ready for the prom on the top of...
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the top of the spire is incredible! Step...
View from the top of the spire is incredible! Step...
Rock Climbing Photo: Original Optimist is a sweet spiral to the summit.
Original Optimist is a sweet spiral to the summit.
Rock Climbing Photo: Atop The Totem Pole via Pathological Optimist whic...
Atop The Totem Pole via Pathological Optimist whic...
Rock Climbing Photo: Manny busting a cold on Pathological Optimist.
Manny busting a cold on Pathological Optimist.
Rock Climbing Photo: Manny topping out on Pathological Optimist.
Manny topping out on Pathological Optimist.
Rock Climbing Photo: Austin doing the FA on-site of Pathological Optimi...
Austin doing the FA on-site of Pathological Optimi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Austin doing the FA on-site of Pathological Optimi...
Austin doing the FA on-site of Pathological Optimi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Austin doing the FA on-site of Pathological Optimi...
Austin doing the FA on-site of Pathological Optimi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Austin doing the FA on-site of Pathological Optimi...
Austin doing the FA on-site of Pathological Optimi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Austin doing the FA on-site of Pathological Optimi...
Austin doing the FA on-site of Pathological Optimi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Austin doing the FA on-site of Pathological Optimi...
Austin doing the FA on-site of Pathological Optimi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Austin doing the FA on-site of Pathological Optimi...
Austin doing the FA on-site of Pathological Optimi...

Comments on Pathological Optimist Add Comment
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By Nate Young
From: Phoenix
Dec 31, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

All of the beta for The Original Totem line works for this, just walk around the corner and you will see the first both up on the set of staircase ledges on the left hand side.

There are two cruxes on this route, the first isn't too bad, just involves some high stepping.

The second crux is a bit more heady since it requires you to step out onto the top of a larger bulging section. Move further right then you would think on top of the bulge and you'll be golden.

  • *A 70mm rope will allow you to top rope it after the initial lead.

  • ** I would recommend this route over the original based on aesthetics (personal opinion) and the lack of the wondering route search fest that the original requires you to do. HOWEVER, do both if you have time!
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 31, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Nice work guys. Looking forward to trying it!
By ldsclimber
From: Santan Valley, AZ
Dec 31, 2012

Great shots Nate! I had a blast getting it done with you guys. Cant wait to get out there and get the direct and the south side done.
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Jan 7, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Yeah, this looks great -- well done!! I can't wait to get on it and enjoy a new route up that fantastic feature. And, yes, Nate, your pictures are really fantastic -- getting the exposures right down there is always so hard with such dramatic sun-shade contrasts. Thanks all!!
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Feb 17, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Climbing gets harder the higher you go. Rest before the first bulge on a great ledge. Work right to a great foothold and then one more steep part and you're into the crack. Nice gear.
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Apr 1, 2013
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Wow, I had such a great time climbing this on Saturday! Nice work on this route you all and I now like this and the route that David hasn't posted yet (Gold) the most for the area. Such fun indeed! Well bolted and very thoughtful climbing.
By matt evans
From: salt lake city, UT
Apr 28, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Jumped over to this route after getting stuck on bolt#4 of the classic totem route ( left a quick draw up there for the next group to earn/steal. This route is easier. I placed two medium sized nuts and 2 cams (one small cam and one bd 0.5) in the 2 sections that require/take gear. Great route. Crux is 2-3 bolts before first anchor. 5.10b
By K-Tanz
From: Phoenix, AZ
Feb 12, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Awesome route! I would venture to say a new classic. I misread the beta and stoppped at the first set of anchors on my first go. Don't be me! If you have a 70m cord push it all the way to the top! 70 is just barely long enough for both ends to reach. I placed three pieces between bolts 2 and 3 (two would be safe) and one between the last bolt and anchors. Go climb this!
By Nicholas Withem
From: Tempe, AZ
Dec 7, 2015

Great route! take a nut for the runout at the top and definitely some small gear for the bottom just after the first few bolts to prevent a ground fall ( .75 and smaller). Chains at top are low and perfect for the lead but a little awkward for the rappel, however there is a second set you can rappel on the other side. A 70m will take you to the ground with the first set on rappel but not a 60.
By J. Snyder
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Apr 4, 2016

Most excellent, smile times, hooray! This tower was hilarious fun! Nice job everyone involved. Likely one of my favorites!

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