Mountain Project: Climbing Central Arizona

Afters years of hearing and seeing pictures of the Totem Pole I finally was able to get out there. I descovered for myself that it was truely an Az must do. It was done in the best and only style possible, ground up. It meanders up the pole taking the path of least resistance with the best drilling stances. I was seriouly impressed by the gumption the FA had. After walking around and looking at the tower, I couldn't help imagining other routes that would reach the summit. A couple months later withe the help of the existing route there is now another route to the summit.This route is found on the East side of the Totem Pole. It starts on a steep face and contiues up stustained climbing passing several bolts to the top. Though there are quite a few bolts, it is not a sport route. Gear is needed in two
sections of the route. It could potentially lead to ground fall should one fall tring to clip the third bolt with no gear. So play it safe and take gear. As one climber said "its a route to be proud of." Enjoy Az!

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By Nate Young
From: Phoenix
Dec 31, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c

All of the beta for The Original Totem line works for this, just walk around the corner and you will see the first both up on the set of staircase ledges on the left hand side.

There are two cruxes on this route, the first isn't too bad, just involves some high stepping.

The second crux is a bit more heady since it requires you to step out onto the top of a larger bulging section. Move further right then you would think on top of the bulge and you'll be golden.

*A 70mm rope will allow you to top rope it after the initial lead.

** I would recommend this route over the original based on aesthetics (personal opinion) and the lack of the wondering route search fest that the original requires you to do. HOWEVER, do both if you have time!

By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 31, 2012
rating: 5.10

Nice work guys. Looking forward to trying it!

By ldsclimber
From: Queen Creek AZ
Dec 31, 2012

Great shots Nate! I had a blast getting it done with you guys. Cant wait to get out there and get the direct and the south side done.

By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jan 7, 2013
rating: 5.10+

Yeah, this looks great -- well done!! I can't wait to get on it and enjoy a new route up that fantastic feature. And, yes, Nate, your pictures are really fantastic -- getting the exposures right down there is always so hard with such dramatic sun-shade contrasts. Thanks all!!

By manuel rangel
Feb 17, 2013
rating: 5.10c

Climbing gets harder the higher you go. Rest before the first bulge on a great ledge. Work right to a great foothold and then one more steep part and you're into the crack. Nice gear.

By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Apr 1, 2013
rating: 5.10+

Wow, I had such a great time climbing this on Saturday! Nice work on this route you all and I now like this and the route that David hasn't posted yet (Gold) the most for the area. Such fun indeed! Well bolted and very thoughtful climbing.

By matt evans
From: Gilbert, az
Apr 28, 2013
rating: 5.10

Jumped over to this route after getting stuck on bolt#4 of the classic totem route ( left a quick draw up there for the next group to earn/steal. This route is easier. I placed two medium sized nuts and 2 cams (one small cam and one bd 0.5) in the 2 sections that require/take gear. Great route. Crux is 2-3 bolts before first anchor. 5.10b

Pathological Optimist

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