Patent Pending 5.8+
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, 640 feet, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | FFA Bright and Drayna 1972 |
| Submitted By: | Brian Milhaupt on Sep 1, 2001 |
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Cameron Luth Hanging out At teachers Lounge
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North Face of Devils Tower is temporarily closed for falcons, AND has a voluntary closure each June. MORE INFO >>>
5/31/2013 The NPS has announced that the North Face of Devil's Tower is temporarily closed for nesting prairie falcons until further notice.
Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please see www.nps.gov/ns/deto/planyourvisit/junevoluntaryclosure.htm For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description An offwidth climb that begins from the platform reached after the steep steps on the Northeast approach, directly below Teacher's Lounge. The first two pitches move up and left through ledges and bushes and back right to Teacher's Lounge ledge. A much more attractive start for the 5.10 climber is to climb either New Wave or Broken Tree, both of which take more direct and pleasing lines to the Lounge. Pitch three moves straight left to the crack that splits the first two overhangs. Move up and over the overhangs (crux) and continue on sustained off-feet for another 100', belay at bolts (160'). Continue for another pitch and scramble to the summit, or rappel back to Teacher's Lounge. One can also toprope Patent Pending from the bolts on top of pitch 3, but it is a good lead.
Protection Thin rack through #3 Camalot, several #4 Camalots
Memorial Day Weekend '07... "Newbie Weekend" climb...
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| Comments on Patent Pending |
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By Brian Milhaupt
From: Golden, CO
Jul 16, 2002
| "Assembly Line" is the route that can be toproped from the anchors above Pitch 3. |
By Mark M.
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 18, 2002
| Teacher Lounge is a great place to hang and take in the view, plus Patent Pending and Assembly Line make for some great climbing. |
By John Gunnels
From: Gillette, WY
Apr 9, 2006
rating: 5.8+
| If you enjoy off-widths, this is probably the Tower's finest. An INCREDIBLE view!! |
By Cameron Luth
Sep 25, 2006
| This route is awesome for someone to follow whos just beginning. Its a little confusing on your first lead if you dont know where to go. Other than that the route is awesome. |
By Greg Sievers
From: Estes Park, CO
Sep 25, 2008
| the OW pitch has many outside features to work with. do let it scare you off. 2 or 3 #4s will do the trick on the big end of your rack. it takes a comfortable heel-toe and there are many interior edges. the top of P2 has new bolts. |
By phatline
From: Burlingame, CA
Jun 6, 2009
| We must have missed the OW section; I do recall there being a tree inside a wide crack just before the top-out, but I did some lieback/face climbing outside the crack. We didn't place anything in that crack and it did not feel runout to me. I'm giving this two stars not because it sucks, but because there are so many stellar routes nearby, including two that access the Teacher's Lounge... Broken Tree and New Wave are definitely better routes, so if you can climb 10a you should do one of those. But at many other climbing areas, this would be a 3-star route for sure. |
By Tyler V
From: Woodbury, MN
Sep 23, 2009
rating: 5.8
| A super laid back way to get to the great views of Teacher's Lounge, or if you want to save all your strength for Assembly Line.
If you are looking for a real challenge at the Tower, this probably isn't worth your time, but for the beginner or if you are just looking to warm up and stretch the limbs out, this would be a great choice to climb.
Better have at least one #4 and a couple #3 BD cams on your sling unless you are willing to really run things out. |
By cragsavvy
From: Salt Lake City
Sep 25, 2010
| Did this for one of my first trad leads. The 2nd pitch isn't as straight forward as the average tower route, it wanders to the left slightly. Watch out for poison ivy! I placed a big cam, and even two big hexes that were bomber. The 1st pitch is fairy low angle. I set up my own belay at the base of the 3rd pitch, but you could walk over to the right and belay from the teacher's lounge anchors, it may cause rope drag though! |
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