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Patapsco State Park

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Buzzards Rock 
Friction Wall 
Ilchester 
Woodstock Rock 
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Patapsco State Park Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 200'
Location: 39.2474, -76.7632 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 12,921
Administrators: Frances Fierst, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Dominic Albanese on Jul 26, 2009
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You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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BETA PHOTO: The main wall at Ilchester, the center of the Pata...

Description 

A slew of areas scattered across many miles. Nothing is big (80 feet max) but the proximity to the metropolitan area, generally easy access, good climbs, and generous people make the area one of the best in Maryland.

Mostly Topropes, but some good leads as well. For trad the classic is the notoriously sandbagged Blue Rose at 5.8+. And for sport check out The Truth at 10d.

Cataloged here are only a few of the best areas. Local John Kelbel has recently released a darn near comprehensive guide to the area at Patapsco Rock He has diligently walked almost the entire park and his guide will get you to nearly 100 different climbable pieces of rock in the park. The guide is all online using Google Earth. Need to download the plug-in but definitely worth the hassle. Check it out.

Getting There 

Patapsco State Park runs from just south of Baltimore city west and slightly north till Sykesville. The access points differ for each cliff and are described in the appropriate section.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 6.8 miles from here

25 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',1],['5.8',4],['5.9',4],['5.10',8],['5.11',2],['5.12',1],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Patapsco State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Patapsco State Park:
Middle Climb   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Ilchester
Gratefully Dead   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR   Woodstock Rock
Blue Rose   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Ilchester
Bloody Bucket   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR   Woodstock Rock
The Wimpy Whiner Way   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR   Woodstock Rock
The Truth   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   Friction Wall
Midnight Lightning   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 25'   Ilchester
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Patapsco State Park

Featured Route For Patapsco State Park
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo

Do What! 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b MD : Patapsco State Park : Woodstock Rock
When offering beta on this climb the common expletive response is often “Do What”! This line has become a classic at Woodstock and may seem harder then 5.10c until you unlock its sequence. Climb the short thin finger crack and face up to the alcove. Move out the left side of the large flat roof to its outer corner and pull up for the large protruding horn. Find the key hand hold and stand up. Finish it off on moderate ground to the top. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in MD

Photos of Patapsco State Park Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Union Dam Tunnel.  A common occurrence while c...
The Union Dam Tunnel. A common occurrence while c...

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