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Patapsco State Park

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Buzzards Rock 
Friction Wall 
Ilchester 
Woodstock Rock 
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Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Intermediate Trail
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Loop 1
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Patapsco State Park Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 200'
Location: 39.2474, -76.7632 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 9,389
Administrators: Frances Fierst, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide), Emily Roeben
Submitted By: Dominic Albanese on Jul 26, 2009
Forecast:
You & This Area
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BETA PHOTO: The main wall at Ilchester, the center of the Pata...

Description 

A slew of areas scattered across many miles. Nothing is big (80 feet max) but the proximity to the metropolitan area, generally easy access, good climbs, and generous people make the area one of the best in Maryland.

Mostly Topropes, but some good leads as well. For trad the classic is the notoriously sandbagged Blue Rose at 5.8+. And for sport check out The Truth at 10d.

Cataloged here are only a few of the best areas. Local John Kelbel has recently released a darn near comprehensive guide to the area at Patapsco Rock He has diligently walked almost the entire park and his guide will get you to nearly 100 different climbable pieces of rock in the park. The guide is all online using Google Earth. Need to download the plug-in but definitely worth the hassle. Check it out.

Getting There 

Patapsco State Park runs from just south of Baltimore city west and slightly north till Sykesville. The access points differ for each cliff and are described in the appropriate section.

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 6.8 miles from here

25 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',1],['5.8',4],['5.9',4],['5.10',8],['5.11',2],['5.12',1],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Patapsco State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Patapsco State Park:
Middle Climb   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Ilchester
Gratefully Dead   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR   Woodstock Rock
Blue Rose   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Ilchester
Bloody Bucket   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR   Woodstock Rock
The Wimpy Whiner Way   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, TR   Woodstock Rock
Midnight Lightning   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     TR, 1 pitch, 25'   Ilchester
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Patapsco State Park

Featured Route For Patapsco State Park
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo

Bloody Bucket 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  MD : Patapsco State Park : Woodstock Rock
The old classic at Woodstock, the start is the same as Gratefully Dead in the short triangular shaped open book. Move up the crack and head left under the middle roof. Follow the low angle hand crack out left and then take the intersecting crack back right. Make an awkward traverse move to the right in-between two overhangs to finish the climb....[more]   Browse More Classics in MD

Photos of Patapsco State Park Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Union Dam Tunnel.  A common occurrence while c...
The Union Dam Tunnel. A common occurrence while c...

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