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Pat Tricks 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Patrick Munn and Patrick Purcell, 1993
Page Views: 654
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Nov 3, 2007

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Paul demonstrating the crux beta for the upper cru...

Description 

A hidden route, but one not to be missed.

Pat Tricks begins below a low bolt that protects the routes' technical crux. Move up the wall on hidden incuts and tricky moves to a solution pocket/bucket. Take a quick rest then finish off the technical crux by smearing out to a shallow left-facing flake/corner to your left. Protect this and take a plum line straight up passing a couple large horizontals and small overlaps.

From the small cedar, continue up the face past several more committing moves to the top. The route can be done as one, long, mega-pitch, or split into two by stopping at the small cedar with the ratty tat.

If you practice the art of sport climbing, you will enjoy this crimpy crux, if not, slip it into 5th gear and cruise through it...fast!


Location 

To the left of the Pats' Blue Ribbon Cave is a vertical Wall with several routes on it. Pat Tricks is marked by a low bolt and is the route closest to the sport route Pats' Blue Ribbon.


Protection 

One bolt, and single rack up to a #2 Camalot.



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By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Jul 31, 2009

This route doesn't stop at the cedar. It continues up through a roof with a bolt (crux, difficult clip).

By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
Aug 1, 2009

Thanks, Jim. I'll amend the route description ASAP. Good seeing ya today at Pitchoff.

By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Jul 5, 2010

I see the description still hasn't changed, so I'll add another little nudge. The climbing after the cedar holds a lot of what the first have had in store, hard climbing with some good commitment.
The last bolt isn't to bad to reach up and clip, and then down climb to suss out the crux roof. Some one at the base mentioned that a foot hold had brooken coming out of the roof. They said that it made it considerably harder then .10+. It's likely that that just got into my head, but it felt considerably harder then .10+. That being said, you're basically on TR at that point, And the one hard move can easily be pulled through.
This route is awesome!

By worth russell
From: Brooklyn, NY
Oct 6, 2013

Good route with two distinct cruxes. Less sustained than blacksmith but the upper crux is def. In the 11 range and u couldnt figure it out. Next time I guess