Passion for Pumping aka Corner Pump Station 5.11
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11c [details] |
| FA: | FA: Ron Olevsky, FFA: Chuck Grossman |
| Submitted By: | Orphaned on Feb 18, 2010 |
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Leah Frazer on Passion for Pumping.
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Description This is a classic, left-facing corner that would be a sought-after classic even at the Battle of the Bulge Wall where classic corners abound. Begin with some mostly-solid Chinle and stem, crimp, and reach until you can grasp a nice horizontal and establish yourself in the corner on the Windgate. Place a couple cams and start liebacking, which is followed by more liebacking, and then more liebacking up the slightly overhanging corner until a great foothold and hand jam appear. From here, it is straight in jamming or more liebacking up what is now a #1 Camalot crack. The anchors, which are now two bolts and chains, are just above on a ledge. The massive amounts of brightly colored fixed tat has been removed.
Although this is Escalante where this route was, without a doubt, led on hexes originally (before they made the even numbered sizes, of course) and topped on the crumbling, blank, overhanging wall (without chalk and before those dang new-fangled sport climbing shoes), most climbers now will take a few of every size from #0.4 Camalots to #2s and lower safely to the ground with a 60m rope.
Location This is the obvious corner at the top of the trail.
Protection A handful of each, #0.4 to #2 (maybe one #2) Camalots, plus a small TCU size piece if you want to protect the moves over the Chinle roof.
| Comments on Passion for Pumping aka Corner Pump Station |
|
By chris righter
Feb 19, 2010
rating: 5.11
| Classic pitch...is MUCH better now that you can not see all the bleeched tat hanging off the top. VIVA LA CHUCK. |
By slim
Feb 19, 2010
rating: 5.11c/d
| If I remember correctly, Desert Rock lists this route as 'Passion for Pumping', but I have heard Ron Olevsky (FA, I think) call it 'Corner Pump Station'. Either name is fairly fitting.
Also, again if I remember correctly, this thing is heavy on the #0.5 to #0.75 Camalot. I mostly remember looking at it and thinking that I was going to jam it straight on. This mother IMMEDIATELY threw my ass in a layback, and I knew I was in trouble. I got so pumped that my brains almost squirted out of my ears.
Not sure if the original anchor is still up there, but it used to be a weird, 3 piece deal on 2 walls and maybe a block, all strung together like a huge diaper.
Awesome route. |
By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Mar 1, 2010
| Chuck did it free. Ron aided it a day or two before. |
By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Jun 29, 2011
| Chuck Grossman did the first free ascent of this. Ron's name should be put in its place as a A1 ascent. |
By martinharris
From: Glenwood Springs CO
Nov 17, 2011
| Got a tr burn, and this thing is heinous and dope. New inspiration to get better and make 0.5 and 0.75 a fun size. |
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