Start on the same block as for NoName 4. Head leftward up the short slab to the base of a right-facing corner w/ a crack. Follow this for 10 feet then make a balance move (read: find good feet) up & right out of the corner to a jug & fixed pin just right of a very small tree @ the start of a left-trending flake. Follow this flake up & left for a short ways then straight up to the anchor.
Bolts & 1 pin.
BETA PHOTO: NoName 4.5 climbs the right arching crack in betwe...
|By Drew Jagoda Horowitz|
From: Basalt, CO
Feb 22, 2009
One of my favorite 5.9s. Great lead. Has some different stuff working for it. BETA: Begins with a small slab, works up through a bomber crack requiring some attention to footwork, then an undercling to a super bomber juggy-crack that runs up to some face climbing through the top. Fairly pumpy for a 5.9.
|By Michael Schneiter|
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
May 14, 2009
The third bolt on this climb was replaced because it was in super hollow rock, a flake feature. The new stainless steel hardware is from Climbing Magazine's Anchor Replacement Initiative.
Oct 7, 2010
Charlie Moore and I put this route up in 2005. It is called "Pass the Ditchie". A lot of rock came out of that crack area on the cleaning of this route. The Piton was there since I started climbing there, a Kor piece maybe. I hope it is enjoyed. Mike thanks for replacing the bolt. I need to contact Dave Pegg about this and a few other Puoux corrections and additions for the next guide.
|By Jay Austin|
May 17, 2012
This is a great crack climb with a lot of interesting moves on it. I would call this a 5.9+ for a few of the technical spots. Love this climb.