|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 50'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]|
|FA:||M. Shannon, 1980|
|Submitted By:||Tony B on Sep 24, 2002|
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|Comments on Pass Fail Option||Add Comment|
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By Rich Farnham
Jun 25, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
This roof has some great moves and a wild lip.
A few comments about gear and rope drag. Linking into this straight out of Final Exam is a great pitch, but the rope drag can be problematic. Once onto the slab after Final Exam, set a few pieces and drop a loop of rope to your belayer. Then you can go back on belay without the rope running through all of the gear on Final Exam to avoid that drag. Your rope will only be going through the pieces you placed on the slab.
A green Alien is the best piece I found to protect the move up into the roof crack, and a green Camalot (0.75) protects the roof crack. The gear is good and the fall is clean -- I proved this several times before finally getting this thing clean!
Also there is a new(ish) anchor about 10' up and right after pulling the roof. It is the top of "The Dropout Option" (12+, not on this site yet). You can lower to the ground from here with a 60m rope.