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An independent pitch with independent good climbing, perhaps this is referred to as a variation because it was used as an alternate finishing pitch to Pseudo Sidetrack
From the twisted juniper, climb up and into a hanging dihedral past some broken rock and so-so gear to reach a striking corner with a 1.5-3" handcrack. Climb this to the top and then go up and right, getting gear whenever possible, so as not to be for want of it later. You will head up and right out of the corner and see an old bolt with an old round aluminum hanger out and right on a sloping shelf. Clip it with a long sling (and screamer) or bypass this in favor of some small nuts left of it behind a 4" thick flake. Continue up and right through a bulge (bad gear, but good holds, 5.8?) and up to lower angle climbing, jugs,and more gear. Traverse right into trees and belay on upper juniper ledge (90') or continue up and finish as for the final roof of Archer McLanahan
to the left (5.8+?).
Descend via the descent as for 'The Bulge
' or via East Slabs if finishing on Archer McLanahan
A standard light rack with a few long slings. The best part of the climb is a hands to thin hands crack in a solid corner, but there is a funky start with lesser gear (5.7?) and a steep finish on face holds (5.7 to 5.8, S) that is protected by an ancient bolt and round aluminum hanger... I didn't bother clipping it, placing a few small nuts instead and climbing more directly.
Jun 12, 2007
The old pop-top hanger and hex-head screw-in stud (!) has been replaced with a stainless Fixe bolt and hanger.
This is still an R-rated pitch with poor pro at the crux.
By Clint Locks
Jul 24, 2010
Poor to no pro at the crux, actually. Still the lower hand crack is a blast, and the crux is reasonable if you're solid at the grade.