Pas de Deux 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Jim McCarthy, Jack Hansen, 1959 |
| Submitted By: | Mike fenice on Jun 1, 2006 |
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Nearing the top of P1.
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Area closures MORE INFO >>>
2013 Peregrine Closure: Bloody Bush (5.7) to Overhanging Layback (5.7). This includes Arch, Ribs, Strictly, Shockley's and the Mac Wall. Best wishes to the nestlings.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description A classic first pitch that was first led after pins were placed on rappel.
P1: Start at a short left-facing corner 25’ right of Son of Easy O and just left of City Lights. Climb the outside corner and face to its right, up to a horizontal hand traverse. Move left to a crack, follow it for several moves, then angle up and right to follow the face to the bolt anchors at the ledge. 5.8, 80'.
Direct start - 5.10b, PG13/R. Great but tricky to protect; hence the "R" rating. Follow the thin crack straight up from the ground. You can place a nut in the corner and a small RP up high which prevents you from decking. Have your partner ready to stop drop and roll if you come off.
P2: Climb up and right from the bolted anchor, to the cliff top.
Rappel City Lights, or use Uberfall Descent.
Protection Standard rack - plenty of small gear.
Shirley utilizing her gigantic ape index on P1.
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Pas De Deux. The direct start goes, well, directl...
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By JoeLeiper
Feb 19, 2008
| September '76, third day ever climbing. We both fail; lower off crux pin, leave biner. Sulking a bit, then notice a tall chap with a coiled rope over his shoulder, angling up solo from the left. He's wearing a white cap.
"That your biner?"
"Yeah."
"You want it?"
"Uh, sure. But don't put yourself out, man."
A few moves further, drops us the biner...then easily continues up a thin line left of Pas de Deux. At the same time we both say, "It's Henry Barber."
He finishes the pitch--Heather, I believe it's called--and joins someone on the Son of Easy O belay. He clips an old pin and galavants over the big roof to the right, down, back up. |
By Joe M
From: Rapid City, SD
Jun 2, 2008
rating: 5.8 PG13
| A very fun route! My first 5.8 lead in the Gunks and enjoyed all of the first pitch. Would definitely do it again. |
By JSH
Administrator
Jul 31, 2009
| The protection is PG, but certainly only that. The crux is well protected. The climbing above backs off to 5.7, and has gear at least every 10', though it wanders a bit. Double ropes help. |
By J Antin
From: Denver, CO
Aug 31, 2009
rating: 5.8
| On accident, turned the hand-traverse into a foot traverse which made for some slightly more-spicy climbing. Small cams are nice to have. Fun overall. |
By worth russell
From: Brooklyn, NY
Nov 28, 2011
| I found this climb fun but definitely somewhere between PG and dangerous. It seemed runout above the crux but the crux is well protected. |
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