Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
c. Frog's Head - the Arch
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arc of a Diver 
Arch 
Arch Direct 
Baby 
Billy Shears 
Bloody Bush 
Bloody Mary 
City Lights 
Crusty Waffles 
Drunkard's Delight 
Easy Overhang 
Fetus 
Frog's Head 
Jean 
Kama Sutra 
Maria 
Maria Direct 
Maria Redirect 
Morning After 
Night Fall 
Pas de Deux 
Patty Duke 
Precarious Perch 
Rock and Brew 
Rusty Trifle 
Sixish 
Size Matters 
Son of Easy O 
Sultana 
Sundown 
Trusty Rifle 
Twisted Sister 
Uncle Rudy 
Wrist 

Pas de Deux 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy, Jack Hansen, 1959
Page Views: 2,032
Submitted By: Mike fenice on Jun 1, 2006
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (56)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Nearing the top of P1.
Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A classic first pitch that was first led after pins were placed on rappel.

P1: Start at a short left-facing corner 25 right of Son of Easy O and just left of City Lights. Climb the outside corner and face to its right, up to a horizontal hand traverse. Move left to a crack, follow it for several moves, then angle up and right to follow the face to the bolt anchors at the ledge. 5.8, 80'.

Direct start - 5.10b, PG13/R. Great but tricky to protect; hence the "R" rating. Follow the thin crack straight up from the ground. You can place a nut in the corner and a small RP up high which prevents you from decking. Have your partner ready to stop drop and roll if you come off.

P2: Climb up and right from the bolted anchor, to the cliff top.

Rappel City Lights, or use Uberfall Descent.


Protection 

Standard rack - plenty of small gear.



Photos of Pas de Deux Slideshow Add Photo
Shirley utilizing her gigantic ape index on P1.
Shirley utilizing her gigantic ape index on P1.
Pas De Deux.  The direct start goes, well, directly up here; the route as described steps right, up, then back left to gain the crack.
Pas De Deux. The direct start goes, well, directl...
Comments on Pas de Deux Add Comment
Show which comments
By JoeLeiper
Feb 19, 2008

September '76, third day ever climbing. We both fail; lower off crux pin, leave biner. Sulking a bit, then notice a tall chap with a coiled rope over his shoulder, angling up solo from the left. He's wearing a white cap.
"That your biner?"
"Yeah."
"You want it?"
"Uh, sure. But don't put yourself out, man."
A few moves further, drops us the biner...then easily continues up a thin line left of Pas de Deux. At the same time we both say, "It's Henry Barber."
He finishes the pitch--Heather, I believe it's called--and joins someone on the Son of Easy O belay. He clips an old pin and galavants over the big roof to the right, down, back up.

By Joe M
From: Rapid City, SD
Jun 2, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

A very fun route! My first 5.8 lead in the Gunks and enjoyed all of the first pitch. Would definitely do it again.

By JSH
Administrator
Jul 31, 2009

The protection is PG, but certainly only that. The crux is well protected. The climbing above backs off to 5.7, and has gear at least every 10', though it wanders a bit. Double ropes help.

By J Antin
From: Denver, CO
Aug 31, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

On accident, turned the hand-traverse into a foot traverse which made for some slightly more-spicy climbing. Small cams are nice to have. Fun overall.

By worth russell
From: Brooklyn, NY
Nov 28, 2011

I found this climb fun but definitely somewhere between PG and dangerous. It seemed runout above the crux but the crux is well protected.

By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Nov 1, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

I wonder how long the pin at the crux has been gone. There definitely isn't much protection up through there but the moves flow nicely...just keep climbing till you find another placement. :-)