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c. Frog's Head - the Arch
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Pas de Deux 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy, Jack Hansen, 1959
Page Views: 2,536
Submitted By: Mike fenice on Jun 1, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (75)
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Nearing the top of P1.

Description 

A classic first pitch that was first led after pins were placed on rappel.

P1: Start at a short left-facing corner 25 right of Son of Easy O and just left of City Lights. Climb the outside corner and face to its right, up to a horizontal hand traverse. Move left to a crack, follow it for several moves, then angle up and right to follow the face to the bolt anchors at the ledge. 5.8, 80'.

Direct start - 5.10b, PG13/R. Great but tricky to protect; hence the "R" rating. Follow the thin crack straight up from the ground. You can place a nut in the corner and a small RP up high which prevents you from decking. Have your partner ready to stop drop and roll if you come off.

P2: Climb up and right from the bolted anchor, to the cliff top.

Rappel City Lights, or use Uberfall Descent.

Protection 

Standard rack - plenty of small gear.


Photos of Pas de Deux Slideshow Add Photo
Shirley utilizing her gigantic ape index on P1.
Shirley utilizing her gigantic ape index on P1.
Pas De Deux.  The direct start goes, well, directl...
Pas De Deux. The direct start goes, well, directl...

Comments on Pas de Deux Add Comment
Show which comments
By JoeLeiper
Feb 19, 2008

September '76, third day ever climbing. We both fail; lower off crux pin, leave biner. Sulking a bit, then notice a tall chap with a coiled rope over his shoulder, angling up solo from the left. He's wearing a white cap.
"That your biner?"
"Yeah."
"You want it?"
"Uh, sure. But don't put yourself out, man."
A few moves further, drops us the biner...then easily continues up a thin line left of Pas de Deux. At the same time we both say, "It's Henry Barber."
He finishes the pitch--Heather, I believe it's called--and joins someone on the Son of Easy O belay. He clips an old pin and galavants over the big roof to the right, down, back up.
By Joe M
From: Rapid City, SD
Jun 2, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

A very fun route! My first 5.8 lead in the Gunks and enjoyed all of the first pitch. Would definitely do it again.
By JSH
Administrator
Jul 31, 2009

The protection is PG, but certainly only that. The crux is well protected. The climbing above backs off to 5.7, and has gear at least every 10', though it wanders a bit. Double ropes help.
By J Antin
From: Denver, CO
Aug 31, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

On accident, turned the hand-traverse into a foot traverse which made for some slightly more-spicy climbing. Small cams are nice to have. Fun overall.
By worth russell
From: Brooklyn, NY
Nov 28, 2011

I found this climb fun but definitely somewhere between PG and dangerous. It seemed runout above the crux but the crux is well protected.
By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Nov 1, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

I wonder how long the pin at the crux has been gone. There definitely isn't much protection up through there but the moves flow nicely...just keep climbing till you find another placement. :-)
By rocknice2
From: Montreal, Quebec
Apr 21, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

The pin is still gone at the crux but there is a pod below it that has a pebble that keeps falling to the bottom and blocking a perfect nut placement. I cleaned it out as best I could and jammed the pebble to the top of the pod but I think sooner or later it will drop again. It's very difficult to move it up and slot a nut while holding on with one hand. It's also bigger than the opening of the pod and needs to be split in halve to evacuate it completely. Not something I wanted to do and create a shit storm, but it would ease a perfect placement.
By kenr
Jun 3, 2014

On P1, people I was climbing with thought it was easier to continue the hand traverse left on past the obvious crack from below and continue several feet past the crack leading above. Then a mantle up to a stance, then back right and up to join the obvious crack above a bit higher. Which also seems to be what the Williams guidebook suggests.

I've done the more obvious way of starting up in the crack immediately from the hand traverse three times, and I like it -- but delicate, tricky, seems harder than 5.8

To me the 10b start Variation seems harder than most other 10b sequences I've tried in the Gunks (but maybe I just need better beta?)