Party Time! 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Ron Olsen and Bruno Haché, 10/15/06 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Ron Olsen on Oct 16, 2006 |
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Bruno Haché moving right into the finger crack.
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Poison Ivy Alert MORE INFO >>>
From mid-May through October, the hillside below the left side of Boulder Slips is covered in poison ivy. It is difficult to avoid no matter how you approach the climbs. Better to climb somewhere else during this time. Routes on the center and right side of Boulder Slips are not affected.
From November to early May, the poison ivy is dormant, but watch out for the plants with little light-green berries -- these are poison ivy bushes. Avoid them and you should be OK to climb on the left side of Boulder Slips at those times.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Nine climbers and two dogs at Boulder Slips on Sunday 10/15/06; it was Party Time!
This route has a nice mix of climbing: corner, arete, finger crack, and hand/fist crack. It lies halfway between Brand New Bosch and Minutia on the left side of Boulder Slips.
Start at the base of the slab where Edges and Ledges, Brand New Bosch, and Minutia also start. Climb up broken rock to a right-facing corner between Brand New Bosch and Minutia. Climb the corner past two bolts to a nice ledge (shared with Brand New Bosch). Step right and continue up a right-facing corner and arete past three more bolts to a finger crack. Place a medium wired nut, move up, and place a red Alien or #0.5 purple Camalot. Climb the finger crack to a ledge, then climb a short hand and fist crack in a right-facing corner to the anchors (#2, #3 Camalots, optional #4 Camalot).
Clip the lowering hooks out on the face to the right, and lower 95' back down.
The route can be a little easier (8) or a little harder (9+/10a) depending on how soon you commit to the finger cracks and face midway up.
Location On the left side of the Boulder Slips crag, about 100' above the road, at the base of a broken slab. Same start as for Edges and Ledges, Brand New Bosch, and Minutia.
Protection 5 bolts plus 4-5 gear placements to a 2-bolt anchor with lowering hooks. Medium wired nut, #0.5, #2, #3 Camalots; optional #4 Camalot.
BETA PHOTO: Routes on the left side of Boulder Slips.
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BETA PHOTO: Boulder Slips Route Overview
1. Edges and Ledges,...
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By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 13, 2006
| Another nice route with some interesting moves. Crux comes nearer the top when you have to step right back onto the face. |
By Nick Wilder
Site Landlord
From: The Bubble
May 6, 2007
| Really just one 5.9 move - from the last bolt your move from the easy wide crack to the face, which is a bit delicate. A single 5.8 move at the top wide crack (just below the anchor) is also interesting (blue #3 Camalot - don't bother with the #4). Otherwise easy and unremarkable climbing. |
By Matt Gates
From: Pinewood Springs, CO
Oct 28, 2007
| Recommend belaying to the far left (as you would for Edges and Ledges). A bowling ball size rock came loose from the upper ledge and landed on the belay ledge directly in line with the route. Luckily we were too lazy to move our belay from where we started. Fun route otherwise!
Edit: If you do belay on the left, move right when pulling your rope to avoid snagging it on a stubborn feature to the right of the first bolt. |
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 2, 2008
| On 11/5/07, I cleared a bunch of loose rocks from the ledge near the top of the route. I climbed the route on 3/1/08, and didn't find any major loose rock hazards. It should be OK to belay more in line with the route. |
By Dave Pilot
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 21, 2009
rating: 5.9
| Fun climb. Started up it thinking it was a sport climb and had to lower the rope to get gear for the top. It's weird as a mixed climb. None of the bolts are really necessary as there is adequate gear the whole way up. Should either be all bolts or no bolts (IMO). |
By Sarah Meiser
From: Boulder, Colorado
Apr 16, 2012
| I usually have no problem with a little choss, but in its current state, this climb is dangerous and not worth doing. A hold near the top busted while my partner was on it and sent a bunch of rock down on the belay. I climbed it afterwards and noted there were several more large, loose chunks of rock waiting to go. |
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