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|Bastille - M-F closures. Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>|
This West Ridge climb still has a lot of lichen but not too much dirt or loose rock.
Start by finding and climbing Super Scooper
From the solid belay tree on Super Scooper
, climb up and left on low angle rock (5.2?) and onto a ledge. There is a bulging overhang split by a crack just up above you. From a pedestal left and below the crack, place a piece to the left with a long sling, and then go up, lean out and right to place a second piece on a long sling more or less at eye level. These pieces, or at least...one to the right, are your crux pro. You can fight in thin nuts overhead later, but it is easier to "run for it" to the top of this short section. In any case, set up and right off of the pedestal into the overhang past a nice pinch and then either fight straight up the crack (5.9+) or fire hard right to a rounded chickenhead, match on it, and then fire hard right again to the right-hand edge of the ledge above (5.9). There are a few jugs at this lip which make the finish fairly easy to do without protection, although some cams might be put in. Go up and left to a tree after this reasonably protected 5.9 section, about 40 feet in all, or proceed for the next 70 feet of 5.7 R. Climb up to the arete now behind you and to the right. To the left of this you can see an old grey aid sling, and to the right of this arete is a 15-30' wide face, and then the low angle easy dihedral finish of the Initial Route. Between the arete and the dihedral, the face is climbable at about 5.7. Climb up this face near its center. The first protection is 15' up in a lousy crack behand a flake (bad gear). The first pro I felt was worth the effort was 60' up with a #3 and #3.5" cam in some huecos. I might have placed a #4 Camalot lower if I'd had one. The climbing here is fun and relatively secure, so a runout within your ability here is not too bad on the head. The section I believe is 5.7 might be 5.8- I can't say for sure. A 5.9 climber should find it mellow though. Climb to the top of the ridge.
From the top, you can rap by moving out NW to the arete to a fixed station and rap off to the big juniper 70' below and to the south. From there, a 100' rap to the south will put you at the base of the route Allosaur
. Scramble south and West to the West Ridge trail, and then perhaps 200' back up the trail to the base of the route.
You will need a rack to start on Sooper Scooper
plus a few large cams to protect pockets on the upper wall.