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|2016 Seasonal Raptor Closures - Eagle Rock remains closed MORE INFO >>>|
A short interesting section of climbing with more rock on either end of it. The route is basically uncleaned, as it was done ground up, on-sight on FA.
Stand up on a 1/2 buried flake to reach up under a small roof and place a 2-2.5" cam overhead. Jam and pull the first roof (5.8+) and continue up and left to a second roof, which is much larger. Protect under that roof on small cams (0.5, 0.75) on a long sling and pull up and left through the roof at its widest point. Very large holds make this easy enough. Place a 2-2.5" cam and pull over the roof with awkward feet and get established above (crux, 5.10- ???) and climb easier terrian with reasonable pro to a tree with a sling which resides directly above on the large, rocky ledge. The sling has no link on it as of now, and the ledge needs cleaned of loose rock when nobody is around.
Just left of the gully for Mephistophiles
and Twilight Zone
, there is a tall section of wall with a tree growing very close to it. Just left of the tree, near the arete at the entrance of the gully, there is a sharp flake sticking out of the ground next to the cliff, with the upward edge "painted" white. Above this lies a double set of roofs. The climb 'Party On' climbs up left of the first roof (yellow Camalot and handjam to pull it) and then up and left through the second roof (get horizontal and grab the huge holds) for the crux. From there, easier climbing takes you to a loose rocky ledge and the top, where a large tree with a sling marks the top.
A light rack to 3.5" Crux pro is .5-.75" cams under the large roof.